MT60 > MR60
MT is only good if the phase leads are long enough to be bundled, routing MR is so much neater
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I don’t know those Chinese pivot cups. Order yellow and white and see what is best for you.
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One of my battery wires keeps coming off. Soldered it 2 times now, applied force and it’s a good solder. When checking again after some weeks it’s fucked. Any tips on how to solder this mofo? Terminals are exposed in the pic, after I’m done soldering I always use electrical tape and gorilla tape on top.
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Scratch the surface with sandpaper before soldering. Tin both sides, then stick together.
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Needs more flux or a good rosin core solder to stick.
Take it off, wick up the old solder, then use some flux and put new solder down on the nickel. Then solder the wire to that.
Check out the difference between no flux and flux in this video:
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What solder are you using and what temp is your iron at?
I solder at 400F with 63/37 and after getting a bead on the nickel and a timed lead I can stick them together with about 2 seconds of heat.
Make sure you have a nice pool of solder stuck to your nickel and check that you’re using good solder.
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Am going to be putting new motors on the Flux after many many happy miles… The old motors i’m going to start hobbying on ; put new bearings in (one is bad) , and fix em up 
This will sort of be my first ever experience building/repairing electronics on my esk8 
Can i leave the battery connected when doing the job, because i’ll be messing with the motorwires/connectors etc ?
The battery-connector is a bit fidly to get to, so if its safe i want to just keep it connected…
i’ve read about sparks and battery / not being a good situation 
Thanks , much appreciated !
I recommend unplugging it to be safe
Personally, I’ve left my battery connected to my ESC when working on and taking apart my hub motors. Even left it connected while cleaning the strator with vinegar then alcohol. So long as you know 100% that only the power button will turn on the controller than you’re probably fine.
That being said, in general it is a better to unplug the battery from the controller to be safe. Even more so when this is your first time working on an esk8 so it is more likely that you could make a mistake.
Taking the extra time to unplug the battery >> not doing it and frying a part.
Also not sure what you think you are going to be doing that will cause sparks 
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Unrelated: what enclosure is that?
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it might, but it would be way too thick to use on the magnets. I used this epoxy to re glue an entire motor’s magnets
left it in the sun in TX for 24 hours and then ended up blasting it with a hair dryer to get it to fully cure because I’m inpatient.
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Hello, complete beginner here. I’m trying to connect a hub motor, esc, and battery for the first time. The esc is for two motors but my project only encorporates one. I got everything hooked up except the battery level indicator and the five wires coming out of the motor, which at the moment the purpose of which escapes me. There’s a short black wire that fell off, from where I don’t know. I turned it on and heard a beep or two. A red light came on followed by two more that blinked. The motor failed to turn when I pushed the throttle lever.
The particular project I’m trying to motorize is based on a Flowboard. If anyone can help me figure how to get it up and running I would greatly appreciate it.
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These are likely motor sensors, and they’re only really used when going to “zero speed” to “nonzero speed” and don’t really do anything else. Once the motor is spinning, they are nigh useless except for the temperature sensor, in case you want to monitor motor temperature.
First thing you need to do is figure out which ESC you have, like the make and model. So either link where you bought it from or post high-res photos of both sides, someone will know what it is.
Also show a photo of the wire that fell off and your battery label.
Apologies if this has already been asked but:
Are there ways of controlling your board via duty cycle (and thus speed) instead of current (and thus by acceleration? afaik). I hate that having my remote on like 10% power still brings me to full speed. I’m using a MakerX Go FOC DV6 and the latest VESC tool, firmware 5.3.
Ok, will do. I bought the battery, controller, and enclosure a few years ago and can’t find the confirmation email. I’ll go ahead and get pics. Thanks a lot!
