Ideally it should be a light press fit (a few light whacks with a rubber mallet should do it) or looser.
You don’t want it to be too tight because then you’ll need special tools like a pulley puller to get it back off if you ever need to.
You don’t want it to be super loose because if it can move around too much under heavy accel/braking, it can slowly chew up the key.
That makes sense, thx!
What tubes are primo alpha tires? 170x45, 200x45, 200x50, some other odd number? Does it even matter?
Does anyone know what range of PWM frequencies vescs will accept as inputs? (like what frequencies do most remotes output?)
20ms frames, 1ms to 2ms pulses (50Hz, 5 - 10%) PWM
Not sure how far beyond that you can go.
Try asking around in this thread.
What does “fail on startup” mean? What is it doing, that it shouldn’t? What isn’t it doing, that it should?
i didnt ask anything , because i what i am doing lol but thanks , if i am a beginner after 6 year in this forum i better quit esk8 lol
This is just a general questions thread, the other thread varied beyond looking for a file and it was offtopic.
Nobody is implying you’re a beginner. 
the thing is , theses vesc are getting old like me lol
Hi All. In the VESC tool when setting battery current, the tool is asking for current per side here, correct? So if I’m running a pack made where and I wanna limit the amps to 120 total I would have the below settings, correct? And same for battery regen I would assume.
yes, vesctool is always per side value. so ur 120a pack should have 60a in vesctool
don’t forget to canbus forward the data to the other side as well
Anyone any idea how to install this battery meter 
as you can see in the video, I can’t let it on one value… I also don’t know what that F means.
P is likely to mean lead (Pb) and F is likely to mean LiFePO4 and c might mean li-ion (cell, cylindrical).
But I don’t know.
I’ve seen similar abbreviations. You need to use trial and error to see what value works for you.
I’m guessing “10c” means “10S li-ion cells”
Ohh thx! I tought P would be the parallel group and C the cells per parallel group. But this make sense. So for li-ion 10s3P I should fill in 10C right?
I don’t know, but “10c” is the first thing I would try, and see if it works correctly.
So after much negotiation with my partner about buying an eskate i convinced her that DIY would be cheaper as i would be spreading the costs out over a period of time while i build.
my cells for the battery arrive soon and i should be finished the build by the weekend. my only real grey area i have atm is with the vesc settings, I’m a heavier lad ( 115kg) and and id like something that is fun to start off with but wont murder me straight away. later on i can always re-tune if i want to get more aggressive.
current component build specs are below
MBS metal matrix 2 trucks
mbs 5 star hubs with offroad tyres
hoyte puck
2x reacher 6386 205kv motors
boardnamics m1at gear drive running a 4.6 ratio
BKB xenith vesc
12s8p battery using Vapcell k40 cells.
thanks in advance
The matrix ii are gonna bend… i am heavy about 260lb and went with the trampa solid hanger.
Also the 4.6 is too low for 8 inch tires. Go with boardnamics or apex 5 and up to 1. Motors seem good but kv is too high.
All of the above is my experience as a heavy guy but someone might have a different opinion.
Edit: none of this is vesc setting related but if you had different motors and more torque it could be.
I originally looked at trampa trucks but the shipping to Australia was criminal and i couldnt justify it. The rest of my component’s were what i could get as the market is pretty small for diy boards in Australia.
I just recently programmed a VESC for the first time and I was given the excellent advice of “run the setup wizard. Go for a ride. Adjust accordingly. And also adjust your absolute max battery current” bc it’s always ludicrously high for some reason. The wizard started my motor current at 62/-62. Went fot a ride and bumped it up to 70/-70 and then up to 80/-80 pretty quickly.
Also, remember when setting battery current that you’re splitting what you want your total current to be as the tool is asking your for the current for each side of the controller.
Famous last words bro. It’s gonna take longer than u think… adjust your expectations so you don’t get frustrated and bin the whole damn thing lol.
Haha i have a week off from work to lock myself away and focus on the battery.Everything else is assembled, torqued, and loctited.
If it all goes to poo ive been waititng few months already to finish this, another few days to do things right isnt going to kill me.
