I agree, I was hoping to learn a magical new trick 
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is there any way to “reverse” a ppm remote? with the case mod I’m using the old “backwards” is what I now want “forwards” to be and vice-versa. can I just invert it in software like with the motors? I could just use current bidirectional but I really want hyst reverse with the right throttle orientation.
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Swap the potentiometer leads inside the remote. I think it’s the outer two on the Mini & GT2B
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You know of any good non brittle epoxy? Gonna put some epoxy around the potentiometer and over the solder joints in the hoyt puck.
search is useless, does anyone have the measurements for kegel pins? or a SLDPRT file for the kegel wheel mount standard?
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It’s a poor carpenter who blames his tools
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Thank you! This’ll be very helpful!
This is a “medium” epoxy I’ve used for a long time. It’s hard but not as brittle as many. Silicone RTV (electronics grade) can work better for strain relief of wires.
[Later edit] But it can wick under and into things, perhaps into places you don’t want it to go, so it might not be a good choice.
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I need it to be really rigid, but not brittle. Whole point is to not let the potentiometer or solders move at all.
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According to project farm, original JB is the strongest epoxy from the ones he tested.
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Surprise! It’s jb weld. Always.
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Yup, I mentioned it is hard (80D). 
I haven’t had any problems with it being too brittle. I use it for affixing heavier components to circuit boards (beepers, inductors, etc.) and have never had one crack off. With enough force though you can, of course, cause it to break.
I recommend going crazy with making sure you have a true 1:1 ratio when mixing as IMO most problems (not hard enough or too brittle) come from too little or too much hardener when mixing.
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Thanks. This helps alot. Gonna look if i can find this product here in the north. 
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Leave it somewhere warm for at least 24 hours so it cures fully. In a cold room it takes a lot longer to get full hard.
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Can’t find any ir scanners
Anyone know if I can use a phone as one?
Either way I heated for a minute and a half (the entire motor got hot) and the bolt still won’t budge
Is there a way to completely remove the bolt (destroy it)
Heh
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If it’s a steel bolt in an aluminum hole, you can use a solution of alum in water (sodium or potassium aluminum sulfate, KAl(SO4)2 or NaAl(SO4)2). That will dissolve the steel bolt but leave the aluminum alone.
If it’s stainless steel, you’re screwed and you’ll have to resort to drilling out the bolt, and then repairing the threads with a helicoil or other threaded insert.
If you have access to a machine shop they may be able to drill out the bolt precisely enough not to damage the threads, either with a conventional mill or a sinker EDM machine.
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I changed up brands after you shared that vid with me, love that guy!
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He meant what he said.
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No shop sadly
The bolts are those special ones the extra strong steel (forget it’s name) stops them from rusting and stuff