Hello. Noob here.
So, You know why my stormcore rgb power button is always on green?
I wanna fix that before i put my board together for this season. If anyone had the same issue pls tell if you got it fixed.
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Is your voltage set correctly in vesc tool?
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Yes. 
It was still green down to 32-33 volts. (10s4p 40t3)
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Thats all i got 
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does urs do the rainbow cycle when u power on the ecs?
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change your batter series count
its not set correctly clearly
motor config → additional info
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I don’t remember. I will check when i put all things back together.
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I will double check! Thanks. It is probably my settings that were off when i think about it.
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Literally tried everything now
That bolt must be fused in there or something
It’s impossible to get out
Anyway to just completely remove the bolt head so I can remove the piece attached to it
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at least you just need to get off only one screw that sucks, i have 8 of them suckers on a single motor 
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I think the much safer assumption is heat to be honest. screws holding a motor to a mount are hard to get any decent amount of torque into, and lots of loctite sets like a bastard. 260C is weellll beyond too hot to touch (that’s at about 30 above ambient as opposed to 235 above ambient), it’s hard to get a straight answer because there are so many variables with size, material, flame, technique, but Loctite videos suggest “a couple of minutes” straight on with a propane torch
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I still say you need moar heat, and a way to measure how much heat. Either an IR thermometer, or a thermocouple probe (some multimeters will read thermocouples directly so you just need the probe, not a whole reader), or a temperature indicator stick like this, will let you know how far you need to go.
As Shiteside said, 260C is way WAY hotter than “too hot to touch”, which is more like 60-70C. It would immediately sizzle the moisture on your skin.
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I have a 10S3P battery pack built by @Acido.
I did not use the board for around half a year.
I charged it up, but it only charges up to 36V 
(yes, the charger is 42V).
Does this mean the battery is (almost) dead? Or what?
Likely (and hopefully) just out of balance. If so, it’s fixable. You can try leaving it on the charger for an extended period of time, lets say a day, to give the BMS the opportunity to rebalance the pack. See if the situation gets any better. If it doesn’t get better, you could:
A, open the pack and rebalance each P group individually with a 1S li-ion charger that costs like 2$.
B, disconnect the BMS, and plug in a balance charger if you have one. This would likely get complicated unless you have a 10S balance charger which is rare since balance chargers usually only go up to 6S or 8S.
Note: If the BMS doesn’t balance the pack after a day and you open it up, measure the voltage of each P group. If all are above 2.5V and below 4.25-4.3V, only then would I consider it safe to bring it back to balance and use it.
Be very careful if you end up opening the battery. Try to keep everything insulated, and be extra careful that you don’t accidentally short something.
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When I say to hot to touch I mean it instantly seared my skin
Got a lovely burn
Will try to get an ir sensor
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Thanks, so it might be okay, that’s a huge relief. Sounds likely because in my understanding the battery would not charge at all anymore, if it would be dead, right?
But it’s charging up to 36,8V and then the charger stops with green light indicating that it’s fully charged (which it isn’t).
So I’ll just let it sit like that for a day and it could fix itself?
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This means that some cells are fully charged at 4.2V, so the BMS stops the charging.
If it wouldn’t charge at all, that would indicate that either some cells are too low voltage (some BMSs/chargers don’t allow charging below 2.5V), or some wiring broke internally, or maybe the BMS is completely dead. Because it still charges up to 36.8V it’s likely that the pack just needs rebalancing and then it will work fine.
Yes, let it sit on the charger, and see if the pack voltage increases. If the voltage increases after a day on the charger, that means that the BMS is rebalancing the pack. If this is the case, let it sit on the charger until you reach about 41.5V or so. May or may not take multiple days, depending on how many cells need to be rebalanced and fast your BMS is at doing the balancing.
Since the pack has gone out of balance however, that means that you should keep an eye on it’s “fully charged” voltage because a pack that has gone out of balance is prone to going out of balance again. And it’s a good idea to always charge to full. Many BMSs can only do their work at the end of the charging.
If this doesn’t fix your pack, it still may be recoverable, just further steps are a bit more advanced.
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I would not be charging this pack any further without first checking the individual cell voltages.
Sitting this battery on the charger is not gonna help it balance any time this year. Most of our BMS work by using tiny little resistors to bleed off power from the high cells. Even if the BMS does try to balance that large a delta, its gonna take a hell of a long time.
Best bet in my opinion is to check the individual cell voltages, if all the cells are above 2.5v, i’d be individually bringing the low groups up to the same voltage as the high groups and carefully monitoring the pack over a couple of discharge cycles.
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Most BMSs work with a balance current between 20-50mA. I agree that it’s going to take time. At 20mA it’s a day to discharge 0.5 Ah from a single P group. That should make enough of a difference already that it’s measurable. If instead of 36.8V it will be 37.6V the next day, that means that some extra time on the charger will rebalance the pack. Letting it sit on the charger is the easiest way to potentially fix the pack.
Opening it first would be preferable, I agree with you there.
That’s the best I agree. But it doesn’t seem like @Niklas is experienced with batteries, so I can understand being hesitant to opening it up and doing it manually, it’s a little daunting when doing it for the first time.
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Good points. Gives me the heeby jeebies trying to charge such a wildcard pack. I would definitely wanna know what was happening in there before trying to charge it further.
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