Can you share more pics?
The onsra wheels worked just fine on BN 220’s with BN pulleys. Are the onsra ones extra thick?
This is with no washers either side
With 608 bearings in the pulley it is 23mm from outside of bearing to outside of bearing, axle space taken. The wheels are 24mm axle taken. Shaft is 50mm Inc thread exposed.
Pulley can’t be pushed on anymore than this
Guess they are not suitable for this axle
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yikes that pulley is resting really far from the wheel. You’re probably gonna need a different one
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drill out the kegel hole bigger, the pulley can go further in, there is a seam in the core which stopping the pulley to go further, u should be able to see it if u shine some light in there
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I thought that but the pulley already sits flush to the rim. If you add up the measurements above, it’s 47mm just in distances between the ends of the bearings separately. Add washers and no room for the nut.
Thought about drilling the washer hole a little deeper so the bearing sits a bit further into the pulley but still don’t think I’d get enough to engage the locking part of the nut
Oooo wait, what if u flip the wheel around? insert pulley from this side, does it make a difference?
Yeahhh those pulleys are super thick, you may need different ones
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Yeah, it doesn’t engage so actually takes more length lol
damn, guess u got no choice but to get other pulley
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Back to ordering then… doh!
Idler pulley options:
The question is: are idler pulleys something you prefer to use if you can, prefer to avoid if you can, or are there really no advantages/disadvantages at all?
I’ve just re-worked my drivetrain after getting new trucks. I wasn’t exactly sure what belt size I would need but I knew the neighborhood so I ordered 480mm, 470mm, and 460mm. After some experimentation I’ve found I can run 480s using two idlers, 470s using one, or the 460s straight with no idler pulleys at all. Does it matter? Aside from maybe increased belt wear due to contact with the pulleys, I can’t think of a compelling reason to choose one over the other. Does anyone have an informed opinion on this?
I’d try running without and only add them if you need them.
Idlers will reduce your freeroll and even your efficiency by a small amount.
If you can survive without them, thats great.
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I would likely dream up a far more convoluted setup. But what you are proposing seems fine. If its going into a top box, then yes, thats probably exactly what i would do.
Be careful with those purchased series/parallel connectors tho, some of them are terrible quality.
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I need the check if I have any rods in stock, if i do it would be raw aluminum.
I did this with two NESE packs totaling 12s5p (12s2p + 12s3p). I run them individually sometimes for lighter weight. Let me know if you have any questions
I charge each individually and never ever ever join them electrically unless both are fully charged.
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Even better, I like that look.
What temperature did you reach? Loctite doesn’t care about time of heating, only the maximum temperature. Loctite 271, for example, must reach 500F (260C) to be removed. The whole loctited area has to be at least that hot, or it probably won’t come loose.
Depending on the size of the part and the torch you’re using, 30 seconds may just not be enough.
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its a screw holding the motor to the mount
propane torch
part was to hot to touch but i cant accurately tell you the temp
however hard i try it just wont come loose
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im with you, bro.
Have the same problem on my Landwheel hubs. thats so annoying.
if the screws are hex you could sacrifice on old allen key, sticked in the screw and heat up the allen key with a torch. Thats what i will try next.
when the allen key glows take it away with a tongs and try a new allen key to get this fucking shit finnaly off 
I wish you luck-wish me luck!
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The hex head was dead so cut a flat slot
Possible could do it but I don’t think heat is the issue
It’s very possibly cross threaded or something
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