Heh
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If it’s a steel bolt in an aluminum hole, you can use a solution of alum in water (sodium or potassium aluminum sulfate, KAl(SO4)2 or NaAl(SO4)2). That will dissolve the steel bolt but leave the aluminum alone.
If it’s stainless steel, you’re screwed and you’ll have to resort to drilling out the bolt, and then repairing the threads with a helicoil or other threaded insert.
If you have access to a machine shop they may be able to drill out the bolt precisely enough not to damage the threads, either with a conventional mill or a sinker EDM machine.
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I changed up brands after you shared that vid with me, love that guy!
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He meant what he said.
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No shop sadly
The bolts are those special ones the extra strong steel (forget it’s name) stops them from rusting and stuff
These two things are usually mutually exclusive - Stainless bolts are usually not very strong, and high-strength bolts are rarely stainless.
Do you mean class 10.9 or 12.9?
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The one with the oxidised coating (looks brown)i think it’s 12.something
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I think you’re talking about black oxide coating? If you sand off the protective oxide you’ll get bare steel which will react.
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i think its this,
d12.9 hardened steel with oxide coating
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It’s at 37V already so there’s hope! 
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Attaching 12v lights to spintend light port
Can I attach both front and rear lights In parallel and then do single wires to the pos and net on the spintend port?
They are 5w lights
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Yeah probably. The max you can output with horn+light ports is 3a 12v - 36W. I use the horn and brake light together 
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Sound like it may be cross threaded,i use a solder iron to get my red loctite bolts out no problem,id say dremel the head off and drill it out!
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Based on something I just saw that Jeff at Hoyt said, about only using thicker epoxies, I recommend not using that 832HD stuff I posted about. It can wick under components and perhaps places you don’t want it to go.
The MG Chemicals 832HT and 832TC are much thicker but I’ve never used them.
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Thanks. It seems that brand is nowhere to be found here, so i gotta keep looking for something else. 
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That will work well with the alum method. It usually takes a day or two, it’s slow process but it shouldn’t damage the aluminum.
Great for engine bolts/studs and the like, when you really don’t want to pull the engine out of a vehicle to fix it “properly”.
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Can anyone point me in the direction of a good installation wiring guide for go-foc SV6? It’s my first build and I want to make sure I am wiring all the components together properly.
Thanks!
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Like a video? I don’t believe anyone has really used the sv6 yet, but the dv6 is basically identical (just 2 sv6 on one PCB) and is much more popular
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The only real difference between the DV6 and 2x SV6 is the use of a CAN-bus cable between two VESCs. It’s usually 4-pin.
AFAIK all Maker-X VESCs are labeled on the ports so it should all be very self explanatory.
Is there any damage to rolling the motors, potentially at speed, while the ESC is off? It’s unclear to me where all the back EMF goes.