Same. I want to battle harden both of my TB motors but have no clue what to use.
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this will be my first time trying, three boards, will report back.
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The Cabosil (brand name of the glass spheres) is what’s called a thixotropic. Thixotropics do two things: first thickens the epoxy which allows it to stay in place or make it more malleable so if you make your epoxy thick enough then you can place it in there and not have to worry about spinning it as it cures. Second it adds structural integrity to the epoxy. But the glass beads don’t they mostly take up volume to make it thicker and lighter than if you were to use the same volume of epoxy.
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For those of you that have battle hardened motors Did you do both the can and the stators? If so how do they now preform? My main concerns with hardening would be getting the can off balance and increasing the likelihood of overheating if you harden the stators. Have you guys noticed a difference in either of those two points?
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I don’t get it? taking su much epoxy it shouldn’t affect the balancing inside the can? Then why balancing the motor at the factory with a few spots here and there if we are going to change things inside??
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Now maytech fattleharden …, I mean put epoxy more between magnet then balance.
But yes it will be better.
We could make it just like for wheels.
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I bet this is a copy but is this the same thing?
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Yeah. It’s the same stuff.
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Sweet, thanks
Does anyone have any before-after reports in regards to motor temps?
Many motors I’ve used intentionally pull air through the stator to keep it cool. I feel like the extra epoxy would really get temps sky high
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I’ll tell you in six months… Just did two sets without thinking about this as a possible issue.
@Andy87
Got heat problems?
So far not really.
But the motors which have epoxy on the windings also run on a quad board, so load is not as much as on dual drive.
I don’t see a reason to do the stator epoxy thing besides - lose windings.
I would always epoxy or somehow else cover the hall sensors thou.
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Funny. I swear I looked/read your original post 5-10 times. I just now realized you did not actually do your stators…
I did it only on the 8085s because 
Shit 
What I did on most stators is covering the hole and surroundings where the phase wires come out.
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8085s… LOL
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What’s the purpose here? There’s a gap between the can and the mounting plate anyway… or is it to stop the wires from flexing at the bend point?
It’s close to point where the windings are soldered to the silicone wire, plus I have seen that in some cases the motor mount can press the cables against the case which over time can fuck up the isolation on the phase wires.
There different motors with different holes.
On my maytech motors for example was no need to do that.
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