That ain’t me, he’s an imposter 
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No but the bearings are fine. I swapped cans and the good can spins true on both stators and the bad wobbles on both. I’m 100% sure it got damaged during shipping. I could feel one motor through the air bubble wrap, we know how parcels get thrown so a proper packaging is a must IMO.
It just needs one hit, I’ve bent 2 shafts in skate park from knocking on concrete (8mm & 10mm shafts).
Here you see what I mean, perfect packaging 
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After reading through this, and comments from @rich and @Anubis, I’ve just gone and re-inspected my brand new (freshly built 2 weeks ago) Maytech 6374 C2 170kv motors.
Couple of questions (see photos below):
With the epoxy between the can magnets, do I even need to bother with more? (I will test run them for a week or two before doing it, as per your advice Rich)
And the blue stuff. Is that magnet epoxy or is that there for balancing?
In my novice opinion, aside from inconsistent thickness of battle hardening epoxy and 1 small solder ball which I will remove, they look pretty well made to me. Windings all seem secure, sensor wires are all glued to the windings to prevent shifting.
@rich do these look exactly the same as you older sealed motors, or does it look like they’ve tried to make improvements?
I can certainly see that the phase and sensor cables need reinforcement where they exit the can, even if they do feel pretty solid right now. Hard to move or flex them.
And a video of the inside of one of the cans. Slight unevenness of the epoxy between magnets, but otherwise looks good to my untrained eye. Just curious about the blue stuff.
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The blue stuff is for balancing. Also it’s added after the light battle hardening so everything good.
You have the “new” model where they at least secured the shrink tube.
The thing is I know people who run this motors since years without battle hardening on MTB. If you ask them they would say the motors are very reliable. For me this motors are not reliable at all. I don’t know if it is me or always bad luck.
Personally I haven’t heard about loose magnets on closed Maytech’s so it should be fine. If there is zero strain/movement on the wires the motors could last (or not), it’s a bit lottery. If your wallet refuses new motors in case of a damage then it’s maybe better not to battle harden them and be safe with warranty.
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You’ve said everything I was thinking. I just wanted to hear it from an experienced builder. I wonder if perhaps you have just been unlucky.
They’ve told me I have a 6month warranty, even after trimming the motor shafts for E-Toxx kit.
I will run it for a week or two, then likely use black Sugru (heat resistant to 180C) to secure the hall sensors and the phase/sensor wire exit. With it being flexible, I’m hoping it will soften vibrations and prevent damage.
Cheers bud 
On a separate note, Maytech do have some sort of QC process in place, as the first batch of motors had a problem with the shafts, so were sent back to the manufacturer to be sorted before being sent out to customers. I didn’t mind a 2 week delay if it meant a solid motor 
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Uh oh I’m an idiot, back to lurking.
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I wanted to see if I would be able to do this on some used 6374 SK-8 motors I picked up.
Apparently they were already opened up in the past for some reason.
I used a small torch to heat the screws going easy…
And still BOTH motors have ONE screw that is stripped that halted by progress…
One is a rounded grub screw that’s inset.
Any way to deal with this?
Thanks,
Xtra
Question:
Does it matter which can goes with which strator?
I’ve taken 2 motors apart to trim the axle and battle harden (not going to battle harden yet, due to the advice above), and now I dont know which 2 parts go together.
Does this matter?
(I feel like this question is relevant to this topic, sorry if it’s wrong)
Shouldn’t really matter, if there is no wobble or wierd stuff going on when turning the motor you should be just fine… If they are both from the same exact motor model 
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Same model, same batch from the factory.
Should be all fine m8!
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Hey man so I looked at your topic but couldnt figure out the kv rating on your sk8 motors. Could you tell me what the kv rating is 
149kV
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Ah thanks
This should work? Or what brand is better?
Gorilla 2 piezas epoxi, juego de 5 minutos, jeringa de 0,85 onzas, transparente, Paquete de 2, Transparente https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B01M7VD07W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dJJdFb5S3D3EK
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Gorilla worked for me. You want no shrinkage, 5 minute drying.
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This indeed. My first smoked motor not related to blunt trauma or fucking magnets resulted from this movement.
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I did that right when I got them. Then my big bearing seized up.
Can’t replace it with the wires epoxied in place.
You can’t win with those motors. 
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Fortunately not because of no motor damage in the last time 
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