I could post several videos of broken closed Maytech’s with internal shorts or other faults. I don’t trust this motors without battle hardening stator, rotor and gluing the wires inside and outside. But I still like the motors.
I also had problems wth SK8 motors, they were not reliable and they lack in power.
Almost all motors I had died without battle hardening within a few weeks/months.
Of course my riding style or jumping on MTB is probably not healthy for motors. On my commuter the APS 6355 last since 3 years despite one shaft wiggles inside the bearing since day one…
Out of the box (out of the bubble wrap)
They were brand new but I didn’t recognize the wobbling shaft until adjusting backlash on the gears.
According the awful noises which I also had on other motors before I’m still not sure. I battle hardened everything so nothing can be loose. It might be (I hope) that the cause of the noises is a shaking spacer between the motor bearings which is slightly too short.
APS say the motors have no temp sensors despite 6pin JST connector.
True.
I used to be a fan of Maytech but after internal shorts cost me 2 vescs, I am looking for alternatives.
The sk8 have so far been reliable and since they are on my MTB, take a lot of beating but as you say are not very powerful.
Damn so it seems I was lucky not to kill any vescs with the internal shorts. A big problem on those motors are the loose wires. They have so much play inside and outside, it’s just a matter of time and vibrations/movement do the rest.
Just for those who never used SK8, they have power but not instantly. They have no punch like Maytech’s where you can ride aggressive like a maniac. SK8 have a very linear and delayed throttle response like a train.
I would love to have one
My wallet not
Thanks for the info and link, very interesting. So I guess the best would be to glue it straight to the windings, or?. I guess normally it’s mounted on the hall sensor PCB.
Maytech recently changed their sealed design, could you elaborate on the issue with the loose wires? I’ll open it back up and take pictures but the sensor wires running down the stator are epoxied in now (And the magnets are retained with epoxy too. Its not much/enough to be called fully battle hardened but its probably enough to make a good difference)
Do you mean the design of the bigger motors with support bearing?
The only difference between old and new closed 6374 is a bit of which looks like hot glue on the shrink tube inside the motor. It’s not a protection, just for holding the shrink tube that it can’t move outward.
Maytech should definitely change their design of packaging where all wires are bent in the absolute wrong way, it’s ridiculous and embarrassing. The man in charge deserves some slaps. I really dislike Maytech as company. Also customer service sucks, I’m still waiting for a reply about the broken vesc which I complained 2-.3 years ago WTF! I don’t recommend buying from Maytech directly which was a bad idea.
Yeah I was not precise with my statement. I’m talking about loose phase and sensor wires where they leave the motor. They are not secured at all. When you move or twist the wires outside they move inside the same way which leads to internal shorts. When the wires move during riding/steering it’s juist a matter of time until the problems arrive. Then the motor reaches 80-100°C within minutes and gives you a nice truck wobble on temp hard cut off .
Here an example of wire problems (internal shorts depending on position of wires)
Beside some broken motors with internal shorts this was the second problem I had with several Maytech’s
I was really lucky because Cedric (okp) sent me replacements every time! This was the most amazing customer service I’ve ever experienced. And more than that, when I crashed in skate park and killed a motor he sent me a new for free to keep me rolling. I mean picture that it sounds like a fairy story. I love this guy, unfortunately he is out of business.
Talking about great customer service, I also want to thank @mackann BioBoards for the incredible service! I bought 2 Maytech’s and one made awful noises. He sent me a new one and said I can keep the faulty one (and maybe find someone who could fix the issue). This is really unbelievable and more than top notch.
Sorry for the offtopic content so back to the loose wires, since I battle harden and glue the wires inside and outside I had no more internal shorts or other issues with this motors.
Then I glue the wires inside and outside, each wire is in touch with the epoxy putty and can’t move or twist anymore. From my experience this is the most important modification beside battle hardening.
I used superfine but it’s only available in white. The hardener is also white so you don’t see when it’s mixed properly, therefore it should be mixed for at least 7 minutes which sucks. I guess standard milliput is “fine” enough for battle hardening and it’s available in different colors. I’ll order the black one.
Generic 5 minute epoxy such as Locktite or any other local brand.
@mmaner has a good video(Very informative video) he adds glass micro spheres to the epoxy in this case to thicken it up. But that depends on the viscosity of the epoxy.
In fairness to you both, yep I agree battle hardening is not going to bend the shaft, to play devils advocate it possible that one of the steps of the battle hardening did bend the shaft. The motors are balanced in the factory by specialist machines, so I guess it’s easy for Bruno to opt out of the problem…
Your plan to test first before hardening is a good idea for any warranty test by any manufacturer tbh
At least the rotors I got were not balanced but I don’t care. There is no blue stuff or anything else partially between the magnets or is there an invisible new method to balance?
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