That’s normal deviation for a charger. You don’t need a new one…
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Well I also thought that the module between the charger and the battery is broken. So if I put a antifuse between the charger and my battery instead of this module it should be relativ safe to charge it right?
I mean the worst thing that could happen is that the fuse will go off.
You can charge without anything there (wire it straight through) the charger will just spark every time you plug it in. Its not unsafe per se
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Sounds logical, thanks dude!
Which doesn’t seems to be that reliable. I’ve seen a few videos of sparking charge ports on the Hurricane.
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Switch out the module AND charge port for an xt90.
Disclaimer: I am stupid and have no idea if this is a good plan.
When you look at the charging module there is 1 small black cable and 1 red one that go into the black end of the xt30 Plug. Do I need to solder both of those to the black end of the plug without the module ?
I tried bypassing this and the battery charges fine, but it does spark when connecting the charger. Electricity rushes into the charger from the battery. An XT90 loop key should help to not destroy the male/female connection of the charger/board.
I soldered the 2 black wires you can see in this picture together.
Plug the charger into the wall first, then into the board.
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Oh, that’s a cool idea! is that safe to do be doing? I can certainly try it.
That’s the order that you’re supposed to plug it in.
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Oh my, that’s true. I’ve been doing it wrong all along.
This channel is great. The diode thing in this video looks awfully similar to the thing in the hurricane.
What do you think @Battery_Mooch ?
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Yeah, that guy is cool 
But I don’t think it’s the same module. The one in the video is just a couple of diodes, and the Meepo one has actual FETs and + & - connected. You can see the part number in the first pic in this thread (HY1908 is a 80V 90A N-channel MOSFET). I believe this module in the hurricane senses, if there is a charger voltage on the chargeport present and then switches on the FETs.
This way it doesn’t spark when plugging in a charger that isn’t connected to the wall.
edit*
As to why they fail: These are cheap FETs that clearly don’t survive too many switching operations. They work basically the same as the old, non pre-charge antispark switches.
The module even has a fuse, which (I guess) is a slow blow fuse. So it won’t protect against the initial current spike, just too high charging current.
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I agree with @Simeon, I think that’s just a “dumb” set of paralleled diodes to only allow current flow in one direction, out of the pack. I don’t see other components on the board to control anything and diodes are always on, no way to decide when to let the current through.
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WARNING: My battery stopped charging! It’s at 45V. Can’t get it to charge, charger stays green. I’m not sure if I could be responsible, bypassing the module. Honestly I don’t think so, the charging was acting up before, that’s why I even tried bypassing it. (Wouldn’t want to charge. But for twice I managed to charge having the module bypassed)
less is more.
why don’t any of my packs need this diode thing?
They don’t offer any sort of general benefit, only being of use for specific circumstances.
They are what’s needed if you want to parallel packs, preventing the higher voltage pack from forcing current into the lower voltage one. They create tons of heat though so using MOSFETs as “ideal diodes” is the preferred solution for this.
They block current flow into the pack though, which would block regen, so that could be a reason not to use diode-protected paralleled packs.
If you were using a pack for starting an ICE, like that pack in the video, then the diodes (“ideal” preferably) would prevent the alternator from possibly overcharging the pack if you left it connected.
If you’re using MOSFETs as ideal diodes then you can add on other circuitry to turn the MOSFETs on/off for protection against overdischarge, overcharge, overtemp, etc.
Right now I can’t think of any other reason someone would need to use them.
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