Balance wiring criticism/bad examples/questions

That diagram is for a common port bms, looks like yours is seperate and should look like this. WITH FUSE on positive charge wire (right side)
d9b7d7918dce49ed68dd6ba8eedc68a4a6389cb6

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Minus the 3 extra batteries. I got two for my setup. For the balance extenders and balance wires from the BMS harness. Do I still add three wires to the extenders? for example battery 1, I need to have red, white. white, white, thatā€™s 4 including skipping n5, so do I add all of the balance wires? another example (trying to keep it simple as possible) for battery 2, I have to add the same shit, n1, n2, n3, n4, n5. n5 being the black wire. Or I have to do a whole separate configuration since Iā€™m only using two separate lipos? Also another question. Could I splice the positive wire for the charge port to the main positive for the battery harness?

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I still new to esk8 so youā€™d need a second opinion

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Alright. That diagram you sent before is similar to my BMS, most likely will make a thread about my question, might help other people with the same issue Iā€™m having, this is like the only thing stopping me, after this. Few detailing and my board will be done

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Just saw this video after checking out this threadā€¦ some interesting ā€œtechniquesā€ used by chiā€¦

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:sweat_smile: Believe it or not, thats actually better than iā€™ve seen in the past

:grimacing: $450 btw

Credit to @TheBoardGarage

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Chabuduo.

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Dont those packs get really squished into the enclosure by the lid, as well? That seems super un-safe.

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Just to be clear, youā€™re talking about the couple of balance wires that cross over each other without insulation, right? As for the main balance wire runs Iā€™m not sure how else you would do that

I also think that the lid does press quite tightly down but Iā€™ve not built one yet, so who really knows

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Yes, thatā€™s what I am talking about.

There are more than a ā€œcoupleā€ wires crossing here lol. Definitely not a pack that I would feel comfortable pressing on at all.

I also have not built on. I seem to recall hearing from others that fitting a chi battery in a onewheel requires a lot of pressure on the pack, but maybe that has changed.

@TheBoardGarage youā€™re the only onewheel expert I know. Can you weigh in on the pressure that a chi battery will be under when installed/having someone stand directly on top of it?

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Well right, basically all of them lol

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Sure. I hope this helps.

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Awesome video brother.

Youā€™ve just set in stone for me that iā€™ll never make a onewheel battery :rofl:

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I think you missed the point hear

RISK ASSESSMENT

Most common way is to assign a number 1-5 for the likely hood 1 been unlikely 5 been very likely to happen

Then aside a number to the severity of the out come 1 been not that bad (board turns off) 5 very bad (flaming ball of fire running down the road

PVC balance leads melting
Chance 3 severity 4 =12

Silicon balance leads melting
Chance 1 severity 4 = 4

@Gamer43 has reduced the risk by useing silicon wire. Is the risk low enough?

Even if the wires were keeper apart as you say the risk is still there as thay could move so itā€™s still not a 0 risk A* pack

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Some other top end brands epoxy the battry to make the water proof. now if a cell vents you made a pressure vessel than could go off throwing sharp debri. Just like a had grenade :thinking:

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Thank you for that video!
Has anyone created a 3D-printed ā€œgasketā€ that can raise the metal lid by a few mm? Or would that create other problems?

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This thread is fascinating. If youā€™re forced to cross wires and can use silicone that, in my mind, negates a great deal of the risk as silicone stands up well to abrasion and heat.

Question tho- under what conditions would a battery get hot enough to melt pvc during normal operation? Iā€™d think if your battery is hot enough to melt PVC oh, you have much bigger problems then worrying about your balance wires. In my mind, the most significant issue given the environment in which these batteries operate, is abrasion resistance.

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Agreed. Though I would be concerned that the PVC could soften at below its melting point. The pressure and rubbing could then push aside the insulation and cause a short.

If cheap 85Ā°C-rated PVC is used then could there be a concern at, letā€™s say, 65Ā°C? I donā€™t know when PVC starts to soften.

The cells wouldnā€™t necessarily have to be at that temp either. It could be the nickel with the current concentration at the weld points causing localized high temps.

I donā€™t know if any of this could happen. It certainly wouldnā€™t happen often. But I think itā€™s a possible concern to consider if using cheap wire and when locating the balance leads.

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Gasket was the glaring obvious thought in my mind too. There must be a reason why no

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Yep they are squished quite hardā€¦ when I made those Onewheel XR packs a while back I made sure every single wire was insulated to our standards

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