Its frustrating for me as it is my first build and its hard to know whether I fucked something up or if its just a piece of shit
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initially i had Duel focbox but i fried one on a maiden ride. that was my own fault as the settings never saved to the vesc so it literlly cooked. i didnt make the same mistake on this one as i tripple checked everything even after disconnecting it i checked with METR PRO app all my settings were right and they were. i think its just faulty or something is actually wrong. the things not fried it looks like its just bricked. it can be fixed by using a ST LINK but i seriously dont trust it now especially if i go on a long ass ride
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Yeah i might need to get one of these st link things.
they are about $4 from ebay i paid $8 to get it shipped from au so i should get it next week will see if this thing fixes it but i contacted flipsky asking if i could swap the Duel FESC 6.6 for 2 singles and pay the difference. never had a g ood time with these all in one ESCās >.<
Post the results here 
good luck
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Iāve had very good experience with the makerx dual esc and i got the first model which is hand soldered. But its only rated 40 amps per side so not sure if its enough for you The heatsink and whole esc is very well made
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Will be perfect for the evolve build but after this shenanigans im only ever going singles. Ever. Apart from my dual unity 4wd 
i had a AIO Flight controll on my drone fry 1 esc. a $110 controller down the drain because of a $15 ESC LOL i made the same stupid mistake again by going a duel and have had nothing but problems. i should stuc kym finger up my rumper and just got the duel singles. but yeh i do want the extra amps to handle since my motors can handle 100 amps each i rather try and get something rated at 100 amp minimum so i dont run into the issue of frying the vesc. if flipsky doesnt do anything about the fesc im glad i payed through paypal at least so i can take it through there. and i might just go with maytec but i duno about them. kidna scared of the chineese market of ESCās might just go Unity but i tihnk thats onyl rated for 80 amps will have to do more research but i did hear the flipsky FESCās were meant to be good. her es just hoping i got a bad one but so far my expereience with ESC"s in ESK8 has been horrible from the get go
never heard of that brand before though the most they ahve is 50 amp the price seems ok, where are they amde and shipped from?
Dude the 100a motor rating is the max it can take, i dont think you will have any issues with a smaller esc, just wont be able to push the motor to its limitsā¦ which is probably a good thing.
I may be totally wrong here, but I would think that the motor isnāt gonna take any more than the esc can deliver.
You would have to be going pretty hard to be using more than 50a continuous to each motor.
The makerx escs have a pretty good range and although they havent been heavily tested by the community I think they are doing pretty well so farā¦ lemme get you a linkā¦
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Yeah iām a big fan of the dual v4 esc they make its ligit tiny af it fits into the ESC area of one of those 10s5p Cases which is what im using it in right now
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components are usualyl over engineered so if users do take them to the limit they wont break thats why they ahve limit ratings on them. if it does break and you were within the limit guidelines then thats the Manufactuerers fault for false advertising. though i probably wouldnt push 50 amp continuous it would jsut be good to have the esc handle at least what the motor can since the battery can handle it. dont want a bottle neck anywhere like i currently have with my test battery haha
Your battery is rated 200a continuous?
@glyphiks if you have one other vesc which works you can flash the bricked one via swd port. No need for a stl link. Works with focbox too, but you would need to add a header to the pcb or solder the wires to the pcb
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Oh yeah, thatād be dope for sure. Maybe do what @PowerTripNYC did on his Kaly and do some Orange grip tape.
sadly its a DUEL FESC i just heard back from flipsky and they agreed t oswap it over for 2 single 6.6s for the extra cost which is only another $91 so ill see how this goes
My comment was just regarding the ST V2 Link. SWD port is still there even on the dual Flipsky, so it doesnĀ“t matter if Link or SWD, both will work and for both you need to get access to the SWD port.
Just there is no need for a ST V2 Link if one side works or you have one working vesc, you can always use that one to flash the bricked site.
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ok ok is there a tutorial on this by any chance. i just heard back from flipsky and they have agreed to swap it out for 2 single 6.6s for the extra cost which i still plan to do. but if i can salvage this one then it might be ok to keep for a later project becasue at the moment its not usable and they had said i dont need to worry about sending it back. but its pretty much worthless to me since its happened twice now and i dont really trust using it.
nope its rated for 140 amp but i plan on only setting it up for about 60-80 amp 12s7p but the nese modules may not be able to hadn e it so i doubled up on the bus bars for this reason
IĀ“m not fully aware what is your problem with your vesc, but SWD programming is super easy. just connect on the SWD port the IO,CLK and GND with cables shorter than 8cm, than go under SWD prog in your vesc tool, choose VESC six, connect than erase and load than disconnect and you should have access to the bricked vesc again.
If you have issues again and again by accident, than better get the two singles. ItĀ“s not worth taking the risk.