My on/off button uses 3 pins out of an 8 pin connector leaving the other 5 connection points empty like this:
I believe your uart port and switch port are separate like this picture.
Notice on the far right of the mboards picture there’s a port with pins: SW 5V and GND
Does your DV4S have the SW pin inside the uart port (8pin like mine) or does yours have a separate 3pin port for SW 5V and GND like in the picture from mboards?
Hello.
sorry I just saw your response. for some reason i’ve not been getting any notifications. esc has 3 pin connector that sits on the far right like in the picture. I dont have any label for sw anywhere else.
Don’t worry about the mr60’s they’re too tight for the phase leads on maker esc’s without modifying them anyway. There’s nothing wrong with bullets
at the moment i’m having trouble soldering them for some reason. (I think its not a big enough solder tip) so I’d rather sod up only one connector rather sod up 3 in 1 go.
by the way, people mention the xt60 and 90 anti-spark connectors. can these stand such a high current going through them? i’m not sure if this vesc’s power button that comes with it is anti-spark
The channel that made this video has a few really good tests like this for XT60 XT90 and some other connectors, this can give a decent idea of the kind of current these connectors handle over a given period of time.
That said: if you’re asking whether or not to worry about the XT60 on the VESC, I wouldn’t worry about it.
The power button itself is just a power button, it receives power and sends a signal to the VESC which (in the case of the DV4S) has a built in anti spark circuit.
The purpose of anti spark is to turn on/off power to your ESC without the spark that happens when plugging it in,
Some are built into the speed control (like yours) and only need a button to be plugged in to use.
Some are a completely external module like this:
And some use an XT90S connector and make a loopkey like this: How to make an XT90 Loop Key
Your DV4S can just use the power button to cycle on and off.
Also I missed this prior but:
Soldering sensor wires is definitely possible but it takes quite a bit of finesse and can be pretty frustrating in my experience.
I generally crimp my sensor connectors and will only solder them if they cause persistent problems.
Here’s a guide on crimping jst connectors
thanks for the response. you’ve answered a heck of a lot here. the reason I was asking about the xt60/90’s was if I needed an anti-spark connector whether it could handle the current.
as for the sensor cables I asked a friend on his opinion for the sensor cables and like yourself he suggested crimping them. the vesc came with 6 pin connectors with cables already attached which I’m guessing is for the sensor cables. (even has the same colours) so I crimped the sensor cables from the motors as well as these cables that came with the vesc. that way if eovan has wired it differently to the standard I can swap the cables about.
at the moment I have 3 last questions:
do you happen to know the continuous and max amps for the motors and battery? and if the battery amps exceeds the vesc limits can I limit it in the software? I will watch the paval gamas video once i’ve got it assembled but until then there’s no point as i’d forget with the rest of the information.
do you happen to have any images of how you went about managing the wiring? its a bit awkward given the phase cables and battery connector aren’t opposite each other and I need an idea as how to go about it.
how did you go about mounting the vesc to the heatsink? i’ve seen a couple people use double sided tape or something like that but that doesn’t seem very secure to me. as well as this if there is a space between that and the heatsink I can’t imagine it would last long.
This is relatively subjective, somebody who rides hard and weighs 280lbs may overheat things with much lower current than somebody who weighs half of that.
This is dependent on the model of eovan you have, mine is the older version of the GTS carbon super with a 12s4p Panasonic ncr21700T capable of putting out 60A, I would personally avoid going over 60a total (both sides together) battery current, these batteries use a discharge BMS which means the BMS may cut power (at the worst time possible) if you set battery current too high.
For reference, I am 180lbs and don’t ride very hard, my settings are:
Motor current: 50a/side
Battery current 30a/side
This was before putting kapton tape down to secure everything in place, if you’re looking to make things neat, I may not be a great example to look towards lol
I think it was @Evwan who introduced me to thermal adhesive, that stuff has worked great for me so far.
ok so thermal adhesive it is
alright. so I have just plugged it in and powered it up connecting it to the vesc tool and am getting the error message saying something along the lines of old firmware but it has features available that may not work. how did you go about sorting this out? I had a look on the makerx page and they have the firmware listed as 5.03 being stable. the others don’t have nothing about being stable. i’d like to stick with 5.03 but i’m not sure how to continue.
I watched the first part of paval gamas vesc video and may give the spintend vesc tool he uses a try as I think it also has 5.03 firmware.
I’m familiar with the message, it’s less an error than it is a warning. I personally haven’t updated any of my boards to FW6 or greater, I’m also on 5.03 simply because everything I have is working currently.
Acknowledge the warning and continue as usual, it shouldn’t stop you from doing anything in VESCtool as far as I know.
alright will do. not gonna lie though its a bit of a worrying message.
i’m hoping that im getting to the finish line now. losing my marbles over this. I still need to try and fit it all. should be interesting…
ok update, I just tried running the motor detection and the vesc caught fire. I have no idea why. I set my max battery amp output to 60 amps/30 per side, max capacity to what was labelled on the sticker, ran the detection, motor started to turn and then bang. the only thing I can think of was that the phase wires might have been touching.
had enough of this shit. just gonna buy an onsra from here I think. thanks for all the help and time you’ve given.
Were the phase wires not insulated from each other?
yep. they got bits of heat shrink rubber around them however am wondering if there was any small holes in it at all.
It’s possible you had a dud ESC, which you should reach out to mboards about. Its also possible a motor is bad - whyd you replace the stock electronics?
believe it or not because eovans vesc has been noted as untrusty by a number of people as well as this they recently went out of business and so it was just a matter of time if I broke a remote etc.
That’s fair. I was asking in case that ESC was dead, bad motor could’ve been the culprit for both. Their motors aren’t exactly high quality. Gonna put that ESC back into the board?
can’t even if I wanted to. I was also having issues a while back so i upgraded to a bajaboard. i asked for some lighter springs and they sent a set of 4 atrax springs by mistake which was so stiff that it literally broke the bulkhead and other parts. after realising it wouldn’t be good for a daily driver if I had to spend that sort of money I am now on a backfire g2 which is having issues with the battery. so its literally one POS after another.
at this point especially seeing that i’m gonna have to go back to regular longboarding.
aw man im sorry to hear that. You’re hitting all of the hallmark issues of each of those companies. Baja physically breaking, backfire battery issues. Onsra’s reputation has been fairly good overall, if you go that route, I wish you luck soldier 
cheers bud
