Some do
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Fiberglass can wet out to the point that itās practically invisible. You could do a stain and then fiberglass over it.
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sorry for the delay, i just want to close the loop on this. thanks for the tip
hot diggity great score for $100 new in box
can someone let me know what app to use before I brick mah new toy?
edit: gonna go ahead treat this the same as any other esc that runs vesc software, iām impatient
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@moon should I not lock myself into the evolve ecosystem? Iāve been seriously debating thisā¦ But like, I only need hubs for purely street 7"-8" and theyāre $11/PC. Already have one set
I have Bergās for 6"ā¦
I donāt see myself doing any sort of true off-road shit anytime soon.
I think the evolve ecosystem is great if you plan on sticking with skate trucks and belt drives
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So hypothetically, letās say I have been using a 10s4p battery pack for over 1000 miles with no fish paper rings and the pack is held together with kapton tape.
How hard would it be to add said rings to the pack? Would it require a complete dissasembly?
Youād have to literally strip the cells almost down to individuals, because you need to remove all the nickel from the + side to do this, which likely will involve removing the neg side first, because you donāt want to leverage against the pos/neg ring on the top for anything. I would say not worth it at all.
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Thereās really not much to it, they use standard size skateboard things on axle with extended press-fit shoulders, 15mm belt spacing, can find 63xx motor mounts pretty easily. Hubs/wheels pretty standard, bunch of tires for them. Theyāre not very proprietary for what it is on hardware side and itās kind of cool.
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Another gem, Sydney.
I literally just mean with regards to available pulleys haha. I donāt think there are any custom from forum members, just the two teeth options from Evolve. Is all good, can adjust via drive gear
Oh, well, skate kastle does those CNC alum. pulleys that I cannot justify springing for because fk damn theyāre expensive, but boardbumpers have nylon inject pulleys for more reasonable price (in aus though so idk how shipping gonna be right now). Iāve ran the BB 29T and 36T variants and they last probably 2x longer than the stock evolve material. and I think a lot of other pressfit pulleys can work if you just change out the bearing to a 10mm ID one, since thatās really the only difference.
Pretty sure this is literally just dickyho components
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I wonder what connector bestech D140 12s BMS uses.
Itās 2 cables one is 9pinns the other one is 4pin
They have different names pitch etc. Does someone have the answer? The website doesnāt have anything on the connector.
well, donāt overvolt with a charger that gives more voltage than whole the pack collectively requires.
the Bms should simply balance each cell so one doesnāt get more than the other.
the amount of voltage safety etc is unique to your BMS so have you read the specifications?
That sounds quite nice and safe I like that much more than Iād like 4.21.
thereās not much of an energy difference range wise there but you miss out on some initial umph
but prolong your battery lifespan a little (just an undebatable little)
this may not a helpful thing for me to say, but d140ās have shipped over the years with a variety of different connectors. i would post clear photographs so that our resident connector fiends can chime in. although the true fiends hang out in the bbc thread
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Tnx for the tip Iāll try over there. And I find the model number it was purchased early 2020.model bestech D140-Li12S15A-05
I didnāt know where to put this question, so here ya go.
Where can I find well made, steel, D-shaped shaft hole motor pullys? (18 tooth preferably if they offer it)
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something like this?
let us know where you at so folks can find you options with less expensive shipping
**edit: these were not the pinions that @Rob was looking for **
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I hate em hoes. Not gonna buy from em.
The main thing I need is the D shaped shaft hole to get rid of the pesky set screw because my motor has no key way.
It could be aluminum but Iād like to be cautious and just go steelā¦ 
Iām confusedā¦ even with a D shaft and a matching pulley, you still need a setscrew to prevent axial movement and rotational wear over time.
Most people with a D shaft just use a pulley with a round hole, and a couple setscrews against the flat of the D. Machining a D shaped hole to tight tolerances in steel or aluminum is a couple orders of magnitude more pain in the ass than a round hole - Basically youāre limited to broaching, or wire EDM, both of which are extremely slow and expensive compared to drilling/reaming/boring. It aināt worth it for anything other than injection molded plastic knobs.
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