Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

The 5.5mm x 2.1mm jack is more widely used than the 2.5 version.

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the battery im getting from @Scepterr has 2.5mm

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Yes this helpsā€¦thx

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Is the running the VESC FOC wizard sufficient for programming? Or do I need to get into the specific settings on motor max and min?

It is. Wizard it, ride it, and if you feel something needs a tweak, then get into the workings.

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Bigger =Higher Top speed
Smaller=Faster acceleration
Harder= less friction= More efficient

Thanks, I tried flashing the firmware several times, and disconnected power. The warning remains.
It also does soemetimes not autoconnect to this side (bad connection?)

I havenā€™t attempted flashing the bootloader, because it gives me the warning:
ā€œThis will attempt to upload a bootloader to the connected VESC. If the connected VESC already has a bootloader this will destroy the bootloader and firmware updates cannot be done anymore. Do you want to continue?ā€
As it seems to already have some bootloader, this message seems to indicate that this will brick the Vesc if i attempt to flash ontop?

Also, might there be some guide somewhere? Only think I found was
https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/vesc-installing-a-bootloader/752, which Brian already suggested be updated in 2019

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Does you 6.6 dual have a bypassed antispark may not be able to soft reboot, wiftout a soft reboot the firmware wont take. On my bypased 6.6 i break power for a millisecond After the flash completes Sometimes takes me a few goes to get it. I dont recommend this technique on updating the boot loader.

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This is the old 6.6 Dual, it does not have an antispark. :slight_smile:
Not sure how to interpret your recommendation - I have tried dis and re-connecting power after the flash (though not immediately after).

The ESC does seem to work (motor and remote setup all good and work as expected) despite the potentially broken bootloader. both FW also read 3.102.
Edit: wrong, master (the problem-free side) has FW 3.103, while slave (the problem child has FW 3.102.
Should I downgrade master or is it fine to have different FW?

The problem (root cause might be related to the non-working FW upgrade) seems to go deeper:

  • The Input App settings did not transfer to the slave ESC (incl. remote band mapping). I had to manually transfer those to the slave side (as the input wizzard did nothing).
    Edit:
  • Metr Pro: Setting updates (Modes) only get applied to the side it is connected (master or slave)
  • Metr Pro: master side shows random voltage between 40 and 60

Dual CAN is enabled on the FSESC 6.6
I understand why Brian hates duals now.

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@visnu777 , I donā€™t think itā€™s cracked all the way thru yetā€¦ but fuck, it needs completely sanded and epoxied. I really donā€™t have the dough to drop on systems west w/e epoxying shit right nowā€¦ Why has every integrated deck done this to me.

I need to epoxy and frit the thing in one fell swoop. @sender , do you have any fancy ideas for a wood stain and frit color/combo for a bare rocket deck? If youā€™ve been holding back any flamboyantly gay frit fetishes/ideas, lemme know & Iā€™ll go deep w/em.

@Arzamenable , you know how youā€™d put a single layer of kapton over bearings outer race if theyā€™re fitting loose in the seat? I donā€™t really even understand the physics of how, but mine are totally backing out on me. I even made sure to thoroughly degrease/clean outer races and hub seats.

Is it just trying to run away from my shitty skate skills? Are they secretly dried out strips of ManBun McGee trying to make their escape? Given the fact these specific hubs are a polymer, is a fine brushing/layer of cyanoacrylate (dried before putting bearings in, obv.) along the circumference of the bearing seat the better option to fix a loose fit?

Why doesnā€™t this forum let me space things better, is it Reddit?

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Is that the lid?

Nah, this is the main body. I have a few splits in the lid too from swelling because it didnā€™t come sealed. Main body appeared to be somewhat sealed.

Here are pics of it bare

Iā€™d be cool with any ideas of a stain and epoxy for the main body, and just epoxy and frit for the lidā€¦ literally anything. I just donā€™t actually want to go through the autism of thinking exactly how Iā€™d love it to be. Donā€™t have the brain cells for that right now tbh. I thought Iā€™d have a lot more time before I had a serious issue with the deck splitting to think things overā€¦

I could probably smear it with some charcoal so it will match my black hoodie with my black helmet and my black pants along with the blackened bamboo from too many asphalt shit eatings on my Hoyt puck

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If no one answered. YouTube is owned by google, probably just not playing nice with Firefox. You can only watch 4K in chrome and things like that now too

I atleast found out that iā€™m limited to 1080p throught the Youtube+ Addon. If i disable it i get up to 4k. (interested in 1440p)

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@BluPenguin pls gib most basic writeup on RC steering damper you used. Donut b :speak_no_evil:

Iā€™ll shield you from the heathens who trash talk DKP

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Does the BMS limit the max voltage of charge? I recently built a 10s4p NESE battery with a different bms. My charger now stops at 40V. Same charger would go up to 42V on my other battery. I checked and it is balance well with all groups 4 or 4.1v.

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Wait. Fuckballs.

If itā€™s at a point of already cracking, is just epoxy (and clamping that area) enough? Or do I have to go straight to fiberglass now. If I have to fiber, I guess bottom stain is out of the questionā€¦

Has anyone had experience with this kit, especialy the trucks?