Bumped the erpm limit to 190kv42v7pair/0.80trim=70k erpm and its good nowâŚstill doesnât go past 40k erpm though
i think it would hit 50000 if you were using bldc instead of foc
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Does BLDC detection rip the motor apart?
It started VIOLENTLY shaking as it slowly rotated then failed detection (bad detection results recieved, both sides)
i donât know, but my understanding is since foc uses sine waves, the motor can only see the full battery voltage at the peak of those sines, which means in foc the max effective rms voltage the motor sees is less than the full battery voltage that the motor could see in bldc, which makes the motor turn slower at its peak rpm in foc than in bldc
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whats the problem with using wood screws to mount the enclosure? Compared to threaded inserts
Once you take them out/put back in a few times the threads will be pretty wallered out and junk. Just⌠not a good idea.
Honestly, I could write paragraphs as to why wood screws should never be used. Iâm high and donât want to do that though.
Just donât fuckin do it.
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They work great!.. once. If you need to take off your enclosure more than a couple times over the lifespan of the board, youâll wear out the wood youâre screwing into, and the screws will strip out, and then you will have a bad day.
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yeah ok makes sense. I guess i gotta do the fancy thing
Really? How are they working great with pressure distribution along a polymer enclosure and not cracking it? I guess if you have pan head wood screws with hex/torx/Robertson driveâŚ
At that point, use a fucken insert
Start a build thread and c+p your problems there.
Youâre problems are not quick answer solutions and the replies would get lost in this thread
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Itâs not fancy. Itâs modularity, repeatability, and functionality. Theyâd eventually vibrate loose. To solve this, we use adhesives, metal, and threadlocker.
Adhesives meaning itâs good practice to put the slightest drop of something on the outer threads of the insert as you seat it.
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As said before, chuck up a build thread and people could probably help more. Perhaps say where youâre based too as there may be some helpful peopleâŚ
I was making use of hyperbole. Wood screws are no bueno for this application, that has been established.
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Oh, I was actually agreeing with you on the fact that they can work nicely as a one time thing. I just made the presumption that the average personâs idea of a wood screw is a self-countersinking kind, which would mostly wreck an enclosure. Iâm just urging that if somebody is lazy enough/otherwise wants to use a wood screw, to at least get a pan head/other sort of flanged variant.
This is what happens when 50% of work for the past 6 months is being one with the McMaster catalogueâŚ
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I use drywall anchors. Fight me.
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I was thinking about using clamping toggle lock clevis pins the other night (along with neoprene gasket, all of my stuff has that tho) as a tool-less quick release enclosure design.
Someone had a flip open top mount box that looked cool that utilized those. I liked the ease of access with one piece of metal hardware.
So, is there such a thing as a DIY scooter forum? (think bird scooter). Someone asked if I could build one, I have no clue where to start (if there exists e-scooter chassis etc?)
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I donât know of a specific forum, but weâve got some good info here on power systems (batteries, BMS, ESC, that stuff) that is relevant, and endless-sphere.com is a general EV community covering everything from cars to bikes to scooters and beyond.
There are so many ways to build an electric scooter - Hub motors like Bird does, or belt drive, or chain drive, friction drive, and many sub-variants. It all depends on your level of skill, ability to fabricate, access to fabrication equipment (welder, sheetmetal brake, drill press, lathe, mill, the list goes on forever), budget, and requirements.
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