Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Ewolf · January 16, 2020, 8:10am

Yeah thats a option but as i wanna use evolve trucks i was looking to do something different for the deck. May end up just getting a BGTR and moding it over time

BluPenguin · January 16, 2020, 8:13am

The BGTR is honestly pretty dope if you’re not looking for a speed machine. Nothing really wrong with it other than just a little pricey.

Trampa · January 16, 2020, 8:48am

It’s the 41.3 x 63.5mm that can be found on all of our trucks.

glyphiks · January 16, 2020, 9:21am

Good to know! Thanks.

@dani

jeffwuneo · January 16, 2020, 1:35pm

This thread is for furniture. Is not good for use for skateboard.

bollen · January 16, 2020, 1:56pm

@eBoosted makes some nice fiberglass ones

10S4P: https://www.eboardsperu.com/product/loaded-vanguard-enclosure-set-10s4p/

12S4P: https://www.eboardsperu.com/product/loaded-vanguard-enclosure-set-12s4p/

wafflejock · January 16, 2020, 3:55pm

Which do you think would be best for typical skateboard decks?

^^ appears roughly the same to what I use and was shown in the post and says is for soft wood, other options with T-nut style but I prefer more thread in contact with the wood. The motors we use also typically weren’t designed for esk8 nor most of the decks but we are repurposing things. Anyhow any better options from mcmaster or somewhere else?

Also for what it’s worth I’ve been using these kinds of inserts for a couple of years and no major issues I’ve seen… holds up like a lay-z-boy

professor_shartsis · January 16, 2020, 4:20pm

yep pretty weird. one way to think about it is when you run current through a coiled wire, you’re polarizing the vacuum, which stores up some energy in the form of a magnetic field. if you put some iron in the coil, you’re polarizing the d-orbitals in the 3rd electron shell of the iron-56 atoms as well, which has a much more pronounced energy storage / magnetization effect than polarization of the vacuum alone…

Jordicious · January 16, 2020, 4:41pm

Interesting…
So basically this “storage” effect is what’s causing the current flow in the motor to remain more or less constant over the duty cycle of the esc…
I now understand why flyback diodes exist

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:14pm

Running detection and fixing settings, run it on the bench, and get this mess…it got up to speed, startEr skipping, then cut out (one side then the other), then then connection to the ESC dropped

Is this problematic? I feel the motor current shouldn’t go negative since I slowly ramped up the throttle and held it…

Temp stays under 40C, ERMP hits 40K and holds even though its capped at 50K

professor_shartsis · January 16, 2020, 5:18pm

@ZachTetra were you in duty cycle control?

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:19pm

Nah, current smart reverse

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:19pm

It keeps cutting power when I bring it up to 40K ERPM

professor_shartsis · January 16, 2020, 5:23pm

can we see the whole graph with legend

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:25pm

Gimme a minute

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:28pm

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:30pm

10s li-ion, focbox 1.6, flipsky 190kv 6384, 60/30 motor amps, 30/10 battery amps, FOC, sensored below 2500 erpm, 50k erpm limit, current smart reverse control, low power mode on nano (70% I think)

professor_shartsis · January 16, 2020, 5:32pm

you specified a 50k erpm limit? that might be the cause

ZachTetra · January 16, 2020, 5:32pm

It never hits it though, it shouldn’t even be able to go that high

professor_shartsis · January 16, 2020, 5:34pm

i think you’ll hit it at 38v with a 190kv motor and 14 stator teeth