Please help me with my Patriot build

#1

Patriot Built by SkateMetric

Started this built summer 2019

I had given up since due to how costly it was. Minimum wage didn’t allow me to constantly fix the issues.

-Starting summer 2019, just reached my financial ‘goal’ to buy all the pieces for The Patriot Here’s the link

I ordered all the pieces at once with minimal knowledge on electronics. I had asked all the questions before purchasing anything and had a general idea of how it would go.

Forward two weeks later, I started assembling what I had received. Batteries in series to VESC, to Motors, casing between my legs, everything was smooth.

First issue
I plugged my VESC to my computer and only one port was responding out of the two. Contacted Flipsky and they only covered the repairs meaning I had to pay 30$ in shipping. I tried everything to see if it was still configurable but both sides had to be configured.

Second issue
I received my remote control from amazon and I try to pair it, the receiver doesn’t connect to the remote so I contacted SkateMetric about it and they explained that I had to use the VESC tool to pair it so I looked online, everywhere I couldn’t find any information. I gave up on that later and Reddit wasn’t of any help either.

Third issue
Was my fault, I accidentally left my batteries plugged in the VESC and the VESC was on, it drained them dead when I came back to work on it.

Now
I ordered a new pair of batteries and a pair of balls for me. I will make this thing run and I want to.
-I’m set to return the VESC for repair if it’s needed.
-Order a new Remote if needed.

If any of you can help me just by reading this, please let me know. I will add videos of my issues if requested!

Thank you so much to the people who recommended asking this community, can’t wait to get it working!

5 Likes
Archived: the OG noob question thread! :grinning:
Archived: the OG noob question thread! :grinning:
#2

Nothing will drain your wallet faster than cheap parts like Flipsky stuff…

7 Likes
#3

I don’t have experience with that remote so I don’t know how to connect it (maybe it came with instructions?), but vesc tool is a free and open source app you can install either on your PC or android phone. https://vesc-project.com/vesc_tool You will use it to program your ESC.

I highly suggest you read the getting started guide on building a DIY esk8 if you haven’t already. It should have a guide on how to use vesc tool. (I can’t find it, can anyone help? Edit: are you kidding me? it still isn’t copied over to this forum?


Oh well, it doesn’t have a vesc setup guide either, I’ll search some more…
Edit2: Here it is, also not on our forum :man_facepalming:

These threads are quite old, we definitely need to remake them if we want to continue to see community growth.)

5 Likes
#4

Generally, people think poorly of flipsky’s products, mostly because of their poor quality control. So far both of my flipsky vescs have been solid.

As far as the remote goes, there are better for cheaper. The mini remote is loved for it’s reliability and nice control, and I use it on my board.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDGDTFR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6CniEb5X9FATM
Good luck getting your board running, and once it’s going you won’t regret spending the money.

1 Like
#5

As far as the remote issue goes - have you tried watching Flipsky’s tutorial as linked in the patriot build:

Essentially programming the remote is just connecting the FSESC main board to the VESC tool on the computer, then using the remote setup wizard to program it. Above video shows this (and I have linked it at the proper starting time when they start programming the remote as well).

In the video they go through exactly how to program the remote assuming the receiver is properly plugged into the FSESC. Don’t listen to the people saying flipsky is automatically garbage, if your FSESC is up and working now then it will be a good ESC once you get everything programmed properly.

I am assuming you are using LiPos? Did the old batteries get 100% drained? What voltage do they read when plugged into the charger or voltmeter and are they the 6S batteries from the patriot build? If they are hovering somewhere around 15V (for 6S) or more they could be safely salvageable - I can link you to some guides on salvaging them but it is not really hard. The only reason I ask this is because the 6S partiot build batteries are so big that it would take probably days or weeks to completely drain them with just the FSESC plugged in but not turning the motors and I believe there is a chance your first set of batteries are okay to keep using. If the batteries were literally completely empty then they are garbage and need to be thrown out (assuming we are talking about LiPos).

I made my own version of the patriot build so I am familiar with the parts. I am happy to help more, but more specific questions/problems would help us in helping you progress your build.

#6

What remote are you using specifically?

#7

If you have to buy new ESCs (I hope you don’t) then don’t buy Flipsky and don’t buy “dual”. Nothing seems less repairable than a “dual” with one side out.

#8

What? What makes it less repairable the a sing going out? Send it to @JohnnyMeduse and any esc is repairable. Ive been using dual esc’s from the moment I started and have had zero issues.

My favorite esc may be the single focbox but my flipsky and unity have been working fine. Only issue was a whack temote receiver on the unity and i effed up a mini usb port on flipsky.

What he meant was he prefers using singles over duals to avoid having to fix his whole esc when one side fails and flipsky can be a gamble since QC is iffy at best

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#9

Because then you have two broken ESCs instead of one broken ESC. Not all problems are repairable if your traces are messed up which can happen when FETs fail. (but not always)

#10

Thank you so much!

It’s definitely handy, I will for my new batteries to come back, should I consider a BMS for them, I really want to avoid losing them again while testing or mid-ride because I completely drained them!

#11

In the vesc tool (after you’ve read / loaded your motor settings) under Motor Settings -> General -> Voltage, use the battery cutoff calculator (input your battery’s series count) to calculate at what values your ESC should start to limit your power and eventually turn off, and press apply, and then “write motor settings” to set them to the vesc. This will make sure you don’t drain your battery to an unsafe voltage :slight_smile: