Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

hey guys, 2 of my friends have diyeboards with dual 5055,
both the same setup battery / gearing /wheels

after finishing the second build, it became obvious that there is something wrong with the first one,
the acceleration and braking are way weaker on it, no matter how the speed mode is set

the difference is like night and day, but other than that it behaves completely normal…

ive written to jason, but id like your opinions on what could cause this behaviour

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Are they both about the same weight?

no, the guy with the weaker board actually is 30kg lighter :confused:

no matter that, i tested both boards side by side, on the faulty one the brakes are so bad, its dangerous, its definetly a technical issue - it feels close to as if the board was running with only one motor power wise, but both are spinning up

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Never ever suggest this please. It is sub par compared to silicone.

@gustavthemighty an epoxy or jb weld would hold it permanently

@onebluesummer google/amazon/eBay pvc junction box. That polycase site is nice for sizing but is pricey.

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Given identical everything, I would guess an underperforming battery. Any chance you guys can do a swap to check?

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@olsyke are the motor and battery current limit settings the same?

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If it’s the full diyeboard kit, they come with escs.

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Are the boards sensored?

Try unplugging both sensor cables from both boards and seeing how they perform.

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@Venom121212 silicone is pita to remove fully and he wanted something easy to remove and then followed by saying hot glue didn’t work…you’re too late to the party

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I’ve had a pm chain with him going for weeks. Who’s late to who’s party now beotch?

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@Venom121212 And yet he comes to the main thread for help…:kissing_heart:

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those diyeboard kits come with an esc you cant hook up to a computer,
given that everything is the same, the battery is likely the culprit ?

i will try a swap and see how it turns out

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@onebluesummer I have 1 3/4" of ground clearance and @Venom121212 is right the boxes and shipping are crazy expensive. Now had I purchased in a quantity of 1000 boxes there would have been free shipping and base price per box would have dropped by $15.

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@gustavthemighty I second all this

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If you are using longboard wheels, try the standard default of 11.2Wh/km and if you’re using pneumatics try a higher starting point like 14Wh/km

The truth is, nobody will know what range your board + you will achieve until it happens. This is a good guess. Once you have experience you can adjust the power usage to match actual empirical values.

Your board itself is only about one third the equation – about two thirds of the equation is “how you ride it” because you can ride it in ways that dump a ton of power, and you can ride it in ways that prolong the charge.

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Uh oh, you forced my hand

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It’s my opinion that there is no place in an esk8 where hot glue is the best material for the job.

I used to use it… I stopped and haven’t looked back.

Only good thing about hot glue is that it’s easy to remove, which might be one of the reasons it performs poorly.

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I use it on batterys, just enough to hold it together and then go back over with silicon. Just helps hold it together without multiple jigs.

It does save a lot of time. But the time saved causes a lower quality output.

If the battery is properly built, and well secured to the board then the battery shouldnt face any stress on those p group assembly.

I know @longhairedboy uses hot glue on his batterys.