Have a little clunking sound in one location of the rotation of my new torque board 6355 motors. Riding it a week. Runs fine. The knock is apparent when pushing it against the floor. No issues with rotation currently
Loose magnet?
Have a little clunking sound in one location of the rotation of my new torque board 6355 motors. Riding it a week. Runs fine. The knock is apparent when pushing it against the floor. No issues with rotation currently
Loose magnet?
Possible, but more likely is a small piece of magnetic debris.
Once, I burned myself on a hotglue gun.
I hate hotglue forever now. Terrible design really.
Glue should be made of metal. Everyone knows metal is best.
Hehe
You only burned yourself once with hot glue? You lucky bastard!
I got lucky there, sure.
But my entire family died in a freak Conformal Coating fight accident.
Go hug your loved ones guys. Life is so fragile.
I asked a couple weeks ago and i swear yāall said you canāt use carbon fiber or metal as a battery case, but now in the enclosure thread some are saying some manufacturesā¦ Kaly and boosted? use them. ā¦ So can you use cf or metal or not?
can i hook up 2 10s2p batteries to 2 different vescs?
Would it actually give me more travel time?
Im only geting like 2.5 miles on my 10s2p
Itās a really bad idea to use metal or CF for a battery case unless you take proper precautions, such as making sure the interior is insulated and the battery has fishpaper on the outside, etc.
Itās also not great because it can impede your transmitterās radio signals from getting to the receiver (Most common with fully enclosed containers e.g. integrated CF decks)
Also you can get things that look like CF but arenāt conductive - Fiberglass and Kevlar/Aramid.
TLDR you Can use them, but you must be aware of the risks and take appropriate measures to mitigate against their occurrence.
Yes you can run two batteries in parallel - it will give you twice the energy, and thus twice the range. Just make sure both batteries are at the same charge level, and both have the same characteristics/BMS. (Donāt run one pack of 30Qs and one of Chinese no-name cells for example)
Iād recommend actually putting the packs in parallel and the vescs in parallel, that will eliminate any ground loop or power sharing issues.
2.5 miles seems very low for a 10s2p - I was getting 15-20 miles on 10s4p of 25Rs, so you should be getting more. Are you charging your battery all the way and do you have your cutoffs set around 32-30 volts?
yes charging all the way, then when it goes to zero it quits and I had to jump off and it was deader than dead. Its a generic battery. Not sure about cut offs?
Are there some āmysticalā exacaliber batteries filled with rainbow unicorn tears that will double my distance at least and still keep dimensions of a 10s2p?
It is really hard to know unless you know what cells are in your current battery but a Samsung 40t or molicell p42a 10s2p would prob do the trick.
Have you checked the voltage after itās ādeadā? It might be the BMS cutting off rather than the battery actually being empty.
Also generic batteries generally have crap capacity and low discharge current.
A 10S2P of 30Q cells will probably vastly improve your performance over the generic pack.
@M.Hboards Either of those, being 21700 cells, would be bigger than a regular 18650 10s2p pack.
My battery guage looks like a second clock lol when I floor it it dumps 20 then when I stop it clumbs back up maybe 12 points. Ive got an extra 3.5 inches I can go length wise. Otherwise its double stack and 1.65" of clearance
I havent checked voltage after it dies only ran it out onceā¦ I can feel it be less peppy around 25% battery left
Thatās one thing I like about the LiFePO4 packs, they feel just as peppy (non-noticeable sagging) until they are at about 4% then they die super quickly. A lot of times I want that, when Iām staying in the downtown grid.
If I venture further away I definitely want a slow gradual and noticeable decline so I have time to get home if needed.
I also just got done converting all my boards to have no more battery gauges. At all. On any of them. Been running a lot of them that way for a year and I love it. Can always use a pocket gauge or bluetooth if needed, but almost never need to.
A far more convenient and elegant way is to see the voltage using the vesc_tool or metrpro app on your phone with $10 nrf51_vesc dongle. Ah oh, you can program both the ESCās from your phone too without having to open the enclosure.
Yes, sometimes I use the Ackmaniac phone application as well but some boards I use donāt have bluetooth.
My most reliable one doesnāt, and taking apart that board and changing stuff seems foolish considering itās been in the Mississippi river and still works fine.
That sounds like the standard problem of generic batteries: high internal resistance (lots of sag), and low capacity under load.
I canāt really recommend you too many fixes other than get a better-made battery made of better cells.