Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Have a little clunking sound in one location of the rotation of my new torque board 6355 motors. Riding it a week. Runs fine. The knock is apparent when pushing it against the floor. No issues with rotation currently

Loose magnet?

Possible, but more likely is a small piece of magnetic debris.

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Once, I burned myself on a hotglue gun.

I hate hotglue forever now. Terrible design really.

Glue should be made of metal. Everyone knows metal is best.

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Hehe

You only burned yourself once with hot glue? You lucky bastard!

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I got lucky there, sure.

But my entire family died in a freak Conformal Coating fight accident.

Go hug your loved ones guys. Life is so fragile.

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I asked a couple weeks ago and i swear yā€™all said you canā€™t use carbon fiber or metal as a battery case, but now in the enclosure thread some are saying some manufacturesā€¦ Kaly and boosted? use them. ā€¦ So can you use cf or metal or not?

can i hook up 2 10s2p batteries to 2 different vescs?
Would it actually give me more travel time?
Im only geting like 2.5 miles on my 10s2p

Itā€™s a really bad idea to use metal or CF for a battery case unless you take proper precautions, such as making sure the interior is insulated and the battery has fishpaper on the outside, etc.

Itā€™s also not great because it can impede your transmitterā€™s radio signals from getting to the receiver (Most common with fully enclosed containers e.g. integrated CF decks)

Also you can get things that look like CF but arenā€™t conductive - Fiberglass and Kevlar/Aramid.

TLDR you Can use them, but you must be aware of the risks and take appropriate measures to mitigate against their occurrence.

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Yes you can run two batteries in parallel - it will give you twice the energy, and thus twice the range. Just make sure both batteries are at the same charge level, and both have the same characteristics/BMS. (Donā€™t run one pack of 30Qs and one of Chinese no-name cells for example)

Iā€™d recommend actually putting the packs in parallel and the vescs in parallel, that will eliminate any ground loop or power sharing issues.

2.5 miles seems very low for a 10s2p - I was getting 15-20 miles on 10s4p of 25Rs, so you should be getting more. Are you charging your battery all the way and do you have your cutoffs set around 32-30 volts?

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yes charging all the way, then when it goes to zero it quits and I had to jump off and it was deader than dead. Its a generic battery. Not sure about cut offs?

Are there some ā€œmysticalā€ exacaliber batteries filled with rainbow unicorn tears that will double my distance at least and still keep dimensions of a 10s2p?

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It is really hard to know unless you know what cells are in your current battery but a Samsung 40t or molicell p42a 10s2p would prob do the trick.

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Have you checked the voltage after itā€™s ā€œdeadā€? It might be the BMS cutting off rather than the battery actually being empty.

Also generic batteries generally have crap capacity and low discharge current.

A 10S2P of 30Q cells will probably vastly improve your performance over the generic pack.

@M.Hboards Either of those, being 21700 cells, would be bigger than a regular 18650 10s2p pack.

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My battery guage looks like a second clock lol when I floor it it dumps 20 then when I stop it clumbs back up maybe 12 points. Ive got an extra 3.5 inches I can go length wise. Otherwise its double stack and 1.65" of clearance

I havent checked voltage after it dies only ran it out onceā€¦ I can feel it be less peppy around 25% battery left

Thatā€™s one thing I like about the LiFePO4 packs, they feel just as peppy (non-noticeable sagging) until they are at about 4% then they die super quickly. A lot of times I want that, when Iā€™m staying in the downtown grid.

If I venture further away I definitely want a slow gradual and noticeable decline so I have time to get home if needed.

I also just got done converting all my boards to have no more battery gauges. At all. On any of them. Been running a lot of them that way for a year and I love it. Can always use a pocket gauge or bluetooth if needed, but almost never need to.

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A far more convenient and elegant way is to see the voltage using the vesc_tool or metrpro app on your phone with $10 nrf51_vesc dongle. Ah oh, you can program both the ESCā€™s from your phone too without having to open the enclosure.

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Yes, sometimes I use the Ackmaniac phone application as well but some boards I use donā€™t have bluetooth.

My most reliable one doesnā€™t, and taking apart that board and changing stuff seems foolish considering itā€™s been in the Mississippi river and still works fine.

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That sounds like the standard problem of generic batteries: high internal resistance (lots of sag), and low capacity under load.

I canā€™t really recommend you too many fixes other than get a better-made battery made of better cells.

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