If you update metr and ESC firmware (I did both in app) then will have the PPM/PWM input in the log data scroll up here to see my screenshot with it. If it is a UART control input I don’t believe that data is logged.
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I thought I already have the newest firmware ?
Also my metr app was updated recently as well… what FW are you on ? I am on
60 FW 3.58
Looks good. You reverse mounted it. That makes sense given the tilt of the deck nose. Davega RKP. 
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That looks like a cold joint. Mechanical strength is one thing and ability to carry electrical current another. The latter won’t be great with cold joints. You need to get the solder flowing. When mating the wire with the connector it must feel like the wire is bathing in the solder. Be sure to pre-tin the wire well before soldering it to the connector. You want to get it soaked with solder. Always keep some solder on the tip of your soldering iron. It makes A LOT of difference in the heat transfer. Check youtube for some high AWG wire soldering tutorials.
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Hm alright I will redo that one, and add more solder to all the other ones I have done, to me all the other joints look shiny, was my first one though got the hang of it. I forgot to pretin that bad one.
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Is my Bearing shot?
Its the clicking while turning right and the high pitched tone
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Can I pull 25W though the charge port of a battery or will it blow the BMS? It’s a discharge BMS but ive for it bypassed
You can usually, but it may not be advised, please give more details 
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Can I run a headlight off it? It caps at 0.6A which is significantly less than I charge it at. I’m using an old AnnPower 40A BMS that I’ve rewired as bypass
It’s an XT30 port on the outside of the enclosure so it’s the easiest solution for it
The problem here is if you accidentally left the light on, it can destroy your battery, like permanently, because the BMS may not be able to shut off the light if the battery is dead.
We are human, and with enough use, all stupid accidents that are possible do happen eventually. It’s better if the circuitry is made so permanent battery damage can’t happen like that.
But it might work 
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Oh this is just for a single night of testing, I’ve got a readout on the battery from the VX1 and METR
i had the same thing it ended up being my wheel pulley screws were rubbing my motor mount screws.
Same firmware on VESC maybe metr module needs update or app not entirely sure which.
On setting tab can click the blue gear to update over Bluetooth.
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I just got my flispky vx1 remote but I was wondering should I wire the receiver up using the PPM on my focbox? or using the white jst plug to plug it from the focbox to the receiver.
If you want it plug and play, use the JST/UART connector. Also, do you have a 3d printer?
How hot can an fsesc get?
in Texas summer
I’m making a case for a Flipsky 4.12 (as it’s been soldered differently and won’t fit the magnificent @3DServisas case i have)
I’ve started making one from HDPE as it’s super easy to route and cut, do i need some kind of heat sync for the capacitors or can i just mount the pcb on stand offs and support the capacitors so they don’t move?
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The capacitors (cylinders up top) don’t need cooling but support for those and the PCB is a good idea, the mosfets (big black squares) are where most of the heat is likely building up). In any case I just mounted mine no need for extra heatsinks but depends on the climate and how much you’re drawing through the ESC so just check the real-time (rt) data in VESC tool or use metr module to monitor via Bluetooth.
Pretty sure temp cut off limits are set but generally hitting limits means things cut out so keep an eye on it or if you’re very concerned adding heatsinks can’t hurt (assuming they don’t short anything)
Great, thank you
i’ll see if i can track down some 3mm stand offs that are non conductive (as the mounting holes between the phase wires are very close to the solder blobs)
Yeah I used a 3d printed plastic enclosure for the ESC, receiver, and Bluetooth, but still have metal screws holding it in there that make me a bit nervous as well. I also coated that section with quite a bit of conformal coating and had previously continuity tested to be sure nothing was touching the screws. Luckily those ones don’t seem to back out of the 3d print plastic either really.
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