@wafflejock dont have any black lights but cool to know that it allows to see
Edit: oh wait you meant the actual baby…nah that’s just my hand
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You can put it in direct sunlight if you don’t have a blacklight.
It’s enough when water can’t touch anything except coating.
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Im not trying to waterproof it. Just dont want a random cable to touch the esc, heat up to a point of opening and making contact
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@Flasher If you’re using silicone wires, then if it gets hot enough to break down the insulation your board is already on fire.
If not, you should just heatshrink everything or take other steps. The conformal coating is not especially mechanically robust - it’s designed to protect against moisture, not wires.
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Cool. Then I’ll leave it as is. Everything is sleeved or heatshrinked or fish papered 
Who here has supports @Boardnamics?
Which pulleys are recommended for motor and wheels? What size belt? Do I have 97mm flywheels wheels.
Thank you very much for all the help yours are giving me.
Loctite 680 it is easy to remove with fast heating, like a torch, for 30 sec or more direct to the Axel and the pulley. As soon as it get some smell of melting or sound like melting, you should be able to pull it out. You can also buy a cheap bearing remover. I use a combination of both if necessary. Use non conductive washers, and the circlips have to be loose, not tighten (by loose I mean they bearing should turn freely). When you use Loctite, it is best to put the motor standing on the pulley side, therefore no drops will get into the motor bearing and get locked…I live it for a night… Also forgot to mention, do not heat the motor , just the axel and the pulley, really fast at a very high temp…
Ah gotcha stuff I have says “contains UV tracer” just tried here and it glows white where I coated it I tried taking pics but a bit hard to see can sort of see a blob on the leftmost mosfet but for the most part I left those uncovered just coating the pins I might give it a full coat though I don’t run into thermal limits anyway (if it’s an issue imagine I can just scrape it off)
I have a YZpower 4A 12S charger for my board and it works perfectly ~ 2 years of use - just a testament to their reliability.
I’ve seen a couple people say the same thing, and given there doesn’t seem to be a good adjustable charger I’m likely going to end up with that one
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@andrewmunsell You could always go the (slightly less efficient and more complicated) DIY route and get a regular DC power brick of appropriate output, plus a DC-DC converter with adjustable voltage/current limits. Feed the DC-DC with the power brick, and voila, you have an adjustable charger.
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I know this is probably the dumbest question but is there a way to not be on Foc mode when using the unity ? Reason asking because my 170kv sealed maytech gets hots & I know when your using foc your motors can heat up. So I want too try not on Foc too see if that’ll solve it
@esk8 yes pretty much something not usual.
your temp sensor fuck up really hard at the end of the ride.
it´s 0 degtree celcius till 8:44 than you get strange values.
Idk if you have your temp sensor connected or not, but I would trouble shoot into this direction.
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15T motor and 36T wheel is a common balanced combo 
it will need 315mm belts on the Boardnamic’s mount
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Some brick chargers comes with potentiometer, you could adjust the voltage with a screwdriver and a multimeter…But you will need to open the enclosure of the charger…There is a guy selling this kind of chargers within my country, a sales man told me about this. I ordered this one from Amazon
You can choose the plug…free shipping 48usd…
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Yeah, I’ve had two of this style of charger. Great to be able to tweak your voltages just right, but not really practical to take apart every time you go out to tweak the current like he wants.
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Well those are tb motors which are known for wrong temperature sensors. I’ll try unsensored too see if the problem still exists.
you can just disconnect the temp sensor and use the hall sensors non the less.
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PPM is already recorded and uploaded
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My Flipsky 6354 motor can seems to have a little freeplay so when I am riding on rougher roads, the can will create a vibration sound like metal knocking on each other…
Any ways I can tigten it so it won’t make that noise?
I suspect the sound is produce when the motor can and facade of the motor hits each other 
