i would check if there is a play between the circle clip and the motor (motor stator plate). if there is, than add some thin washers inbetween.
Ah it is there now dunno how I missed it when testing again just needed to turn on in the view
This will be a huge help in eliminating the controller and receiver when looking at data.
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What are you using to configure the unity? Have you tried using the full PC app?
I donāt actually remember seeing BLDC mode in the newest version of VESC Tool but surely it has to be in there somewhere
How hot is it getting? If it is not too hot to touch it is probably fine
Vesc tool 1.16 has BLDC, FOC, brushed DC, and GPDrive motor modes.
You want to use more than that for waterproofing, and go all the way to the MOSFET case. You donāt have to cover the case, but go all the way to it and touch it where the pins go inside. Any more that that will just be heat insulation, which you donāt want on the MOSFET body
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I used whatever program Enertion website provides. I didnāt see anything that says I can do BLDC. But itās a little more hot then normal
There were a few cases of running vesc with a brushed motor but I havenāt kept track since finding esk8. I wonder if thatās it?
And now vesc tool has the āGPDriveā option too - can drive anything from a subwoofer to a DC motor to etc.
Iām using the unity is that a issue .I thought unity could only use the unity program thatās enertion provided
Which bluetooth module do you recommend for vesc flipsky 4.12?
Itās basically a feature-locked version of vesc tool. I donāt have a focbox at hand, but I bet if you hooked it up to the full vesc tool and picked āBLDCā, it would run just fine.
Iāve tried everything but canāt seem to find whatās going on.
Every time I let go of throttle after accelerating a bit, my back trucks wobbles making me almost fall. Used tb218 and BN220 hangers and caliber trucks
Iāve changed bushings
Changed trucks
Changed wheels
Changed mounts
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Have you asked Brad from riptide for advice on bushings?
I have his 86a in the back and 78a in the front for carving, maybe itās normal for 12s? Itās my second 12s build that does this, could it be because itās only single drive?
@KaramQ My hypothesis is that because you have a single-drive setup, when youāre accelerating the back truck tweaks over a little bit due to thrust, and you automatically compensate. When you let off, it tweaks the other way due to the sudden lack of acceleration and the introduction of a little bit of drag from the freeewheeling motor, and thus you subconsciously try to compensate for that too, but arenāt able to and thus you get an induced wobble.
The same thing happens for dual diagonal boards, but more pronounced because itās happening on both front and rear.
Iād suggest being gentler when releasing the throttle/beginning braking, and just spending more time riding - hopefully, eventually muscle memory will kick in and your body will automatically compensate for the tweaks and wobbles without conscious thought.
Or, you can go dual drive and it should just disappear due to balanced forces on both sides.
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I figured it was something like that, thanks For taking the time to write that upš
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Or play w negative ramp so it doesnāt throw your stance off when you let off the throttle. On my very first DIY ride, I was having the same issue. It helped changing the the neg ramp to 0.3 vs the defaulted 0.2. To me it acts like a drag brake. Be mindful that it will also change how fast it applies the brakes. Once I get more comfortable w riding, I went back to the default.
Or.
Just let off the throttle slowly.
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Yeah, I just went out riding and it only happens when I aggressively let go of the trigger. Gotta be easy on it. Thanks for the help.
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Nano v2 or flipsky VX1 ?
Which one should I go for?