We make 4 heights of Cones, the .6" tall one is the correct one
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tyty
Curious for folks who carry bushings with them. Are y’all using different container then say the yellow box from riptide?
Question is the kingpin held in with a retaining compound? Looks like one of mine is loose.
No retaining compound. You should be able to press them in or out.
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I’ve been riding the following setup for a bit, and I’ve found it fun and reliable for street cruising.
Split pivot angles:
Front: 42 degrees
Rear: 38 degrees
Bushings are the same for both trucks:
Far board side: APS FatCone 87.5a
Far road side: APS Cone 90a
Near board side: WFB FatCone 68a
Near road side: APS Cone 92.5a
Probably unconventional, but it works for me. The far side bushings are essentially my setup for RKP. The WFB on the near board side helped with the feel a lot.
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New Evan setup just dropped.
190lb w/o gear + 35lb board
40/35 truck angles
Front:
Boardside APS 85a barrel flat washer
Roadside Krank 87a cone small cup washer
Rear:
Boardside APS 85a fatcone flat washer
Roadside Krank 87a barrel cup washer
Perfectly stable at 35mph, pretty damn carvey at 15+ with bindings
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@RipTideSports How does APS do when overtightened a bit? like an extra quarter or half turn past snug?
I also wanna try diagonal pairs to increase my effective angle in the front for more turn
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With APS you have 2 full turns of the kingpin nut adjustment from the snug point.
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What do you guys think of this setup? About to order but let me know if you think I should change anything. I’m very light (100 lbs ish) and would like it be very agile under 10mph but still get me above 30 with relative stability. I’m thinking Krank in the back (84a fatcone boardside, 87a cone roadside), and WFB in the front (78a fatcone boardside, 83a cone roadside.) I’m thinking that the krank in the back will let me tighten down more if I want more stability (plus the higher rebound will help with that as well), and then wfb in the front for more carvyness/lean, what do you think? max speed my board gets up to at the moment is about 35. I will probably also add a 5 degree riser at the front, on a 30/30 flux deck.
full wfb in the front had no centerpoint and felt unstable as fuck unless I kranked it down (pun intended)
try APS in the front instead.
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Ah okay gotcha. I’ll try APS in the front and Krank in the back, if it doesn’t feel right I can always just get more bushings.
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That’s the pkp spirit.
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I’m currently riding (for mixed off and onroad):
Front (same for both pins)
Boardside: Krank Cone inverted (small side at the board) White (87A)
Roadside: Krank Cone Green (90A) with cupped washers
Rear (same for both pins)
Boardside: Krank Barrel White (87A)
Roadside: Krank Cone Green (90A) with cupped washers
I’ve been experimenting constantly since with these trucks and am probably not done. I tried a bunch of things with the diagonal pairs and didn’t find that it made a huge difference. The biggest difference was moving to the stacked cones at the front.
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@Evwan @2xbass @SquishyCat Hit me with your knowledge. What PKP bushing setups have you found that you liked the best. What did you try that didn’t work?
I’m 170lbs, like looser trucks than most. Want carvey/reboundy feel, and ability to ride without bindings.
just a note, this setup is divey with turns. It has no problem going in a straight line without wobbling with a nice defined center point, but also carves pretty nicely. If your deck flexes, it gives a boosted vibe, where you’re bouncing into carves
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This is helpful - TY. I may go a little down in duro to compensate for lower weight and no bushings.
I have my bushings cranked down a full turn past snug on this setup. If you run these bushings with less preload, it should be better
also, you can mess with bushing shape
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