I find this to be annoying too. But since I use metr pro. I don’t bother, until I want a new feature.
I haven’t had to program them individually, if they are connected over CAN.
Does this help?
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I already saw this but this is more to set up a new configuration not updating just the firmware and loading an already configured profile… Thanks anyways
The voltage and wheel size? Select can fwd and check it in the menus, it will be default. It doesnt update both as it stands
I’ll check. But it has not affected my odometry or battery cutoff in anyway. I think it’s because the master controls all that and it knows the right values.
When configured without CAN, it is very very important to set them individually.
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Yea that’s right, so the dongle is reading from the VESC its connected to and not the other one, makes sense. But I think it’s best to have these values in both so I go can fwd and set them.
Check it for your self, next time turn can fwd on and look at your battery voltage in RT, will be 100% constantly as it’s set to 3S battery as standard.
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I’ll try to post here also since the other forum died.
I was running ackmaniac fw with 70 motor amps/40 batt amps and negative 70/15A. This was working awesome and gave the raptor 2 motors a kick at 12S.
I then figured I’d upgrade to the latest official fw and test this new app. Loaded it with similar settings and did motor wizard. I swear the the thing tried to kill me! It behaved really weird and if I went full throttle to full brakes it kept giving throttle for what felt like a second before it started braking. When you give max breaks and it keeps acclerating it is scary.
I then played a lot with the settings and figured I’d try with the recommended settings that was 40/99 motor/batt amps. Then it behaved normal with decent throttle response. Then I upped the motor amps and it still kept normal but as soon as I dropped batt amps to be withing my batteries spec it went crazy again.
I can’t drive with 40/40A set as this barely makes the board go uphill. Is there any other way to make the stock firmware work with 70/40? What did I do wrong?
Setting higher ths. 40batt amps is out of the question.
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The values for RT Data are accumulated from both VESCs. This way you get more accurate RT Data, taking both VESCs into account. The battery setup and gearing info is stored on the master only, not the slave. If your dongle sits on the slave side, you don’t get proper readings. I debated that with Benjamin, but so far he didn’t change VESC-Tool to write all settings to both VESCs.
I have to ask him if there is a reason for that.
He is back soon, so there is probably an update soon, addressing that issue. For the now it is best practice to have dongle and PPM attached to the same VESC.
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Yes that’s what I am doing now. Master side, soon it will have a wand in it so will be master anyways.
I met Vedder in Paris actually, never thought to ask him! I did ask him if we could have the headers put in for the telemetry as currently its without and he said he was going to put it in that night!
What remote do you use? The throttle should respond without any noticeable delay.
Motor settings you should try:
Motor max 60A
Motor Regen -40A
Battery Max: 40A
Battery regen: -40A
These settings need to be written on both VESCs!
App Settings for Ramping:
Pos Ramping Time 0.3S
Neg Ramping Time 0.1S
The remote is fine. This is a issue with the difference in motor and batt min/max. I can try that one more but I already did. Also Id prefer to not loose performance. If loosing performance is the thing I’d rather upgrade to ackmaniac again tbh.
Edit and - 40 is not going to happen. I’m pushing it at - 15/each vesc so not going further above the engineers limits.
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We so much need at function like “write settings to all vesc” when changing values like motor_max etc. Like it does, when you do the initial setup wizzard…
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This is what I have been saying, not sure why you have to do it on each controller - they are connected by CAN bus! Could be a lot quicker and streamlined
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Yes… and it will confuse people. First when you do the wizzard setup, the values is written to all the vesc on can-bus, but everyone I know off will change those “automatic” values afterwards, but when they do, the numbers is only changed on the connected vesc. So many people could potentially end up running dual vesc setup with totally different values between each vesc, without knowing.
Also I would love an option to choose between “automatic amp values or manual dial in numbers” in the initial process, when things is written to both the vesc´s
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I consider myself a VESC vet these days and it caught me mate.
Also if you set it up on the PC then connect to the dongle with a phone and read the values it isnt what you put in on the PC. So confusing.
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Agree, I would like 2 columns for each setting. so that you easily can read/compare/write settings between the vescs
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Sorry if I am a little bit behind on what has been happening with VescTool 2019, but is it worth upgrading to?
I am still back here on my 2017 Focbox’s running off of vesc tool 0.87. Is there any reason for me to upgrade to this version or nah.
Did the FOC full-lock braking get fixed?
That would make sense but also ads confusion to noobs. I’ll talk about that with Benjamin to find a simple solution.
The reason why settings only change on the connected VESC has something to do with being able to run assymetric settings. In 80% of the cases a symmetric setting is desired in esk8 applications, agreed. But what about quad setups with 60/40 power split, or bikes or dual diagonal setups or scooters, RC cars etc.?
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Considering your on an esk8 forum and the majority of VESCs in use are for esk8, I would think catering to those users would be a thing.
Maybe add that as an interview question.
Batt max regen needs to be set for strong brakes.
I would worry more about my own life than battery life. This value is defining a short peak, not constant charge current!
Once brakes are set strong enough to guarantee a safe ride down a steep road, you will realize that you will probably not apply more brakes anyway, since that would send you flying.
In consequence you could set the regen amps even higher without it having a realistic effect on battery life. You will limit the ampflow with your thumb, so that you stay on the board while braking. Brakes should be set to a point where you can brake very hard without you being sent flying. Anything below that point means putting battery life before your own life. Anything above that point can’t be applied anyways.
There is no reason to limit the braking strength!
In an emergency situation you better have those strong linear reacting brakes.
In an everyday ride, you will only see very limited amounts of Ampflow, regardless of the setting.
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