A Better Skatepark Board. 12S1P. OG Focbox. Single Drive.

Just to clarify.
Better for me. Better than my last one.
Not better than anyone’s…

Ok.
I want to make a little board to use at the skatepark.

This is going to be very similar to the board I am currently using at the skatepark, but with a few variations, that will hopefully make it better for park riding.

The current park board is one of the littles.
My ATV Ditchlife.

Whew I was a young person I lived at the skatepark.
Then I got old and fat and stopped going.

Fortunately I found Esk8 and that got me back to skateboarding every day.
But I never really went back to the skatepark.

Until about 6 months ago late fall of 2023 that I took the little board there and discovered I could have a ton of fun on Esk8 at the skatepark…

I should have figured this out a long time ago…
But we are here now!!!

I have to thank this little dude for asking to go to the park all the time!!!

Flowing around used to be my jam, but getting out of shape made it too hard and frustrating.

The throttle made it accessible for me again, and it’s so much fun.

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And a hell of a work out.

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I think it is important noting the current board works.
And it has been super tough.
And it’s a ton of fun.

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But there are a few key things I want:

I want it to be lighter. Current is 13.8 lbs. 6.25kg.

I want to be able to slide on the enclosure.
Do Rock and rolls maybe…

I want to grind on the trucks.
Do a 50/50 maybe.

So the current set up.
The Deck is the Landyatchz ATV Ditchlife.
Which is a current take on an 80s deck.
I like it so much I had bought two of them…
— so stays the same.

The battery is a 10S2P 40T.
---- new one is 12S1P P42A.
So loosing 8 21700 cells should be a big deal for weight.

Trucks are Caliber II baseplates with BN 145 hangers.
---- the new one will be the same in the back. But the front I will use a Caliber hanger that should be a smidge lighter than the BN.

Same old timey BKB motor mount for both.

Motor is 190kv 6354.
----- New one is 140kv 5065.
This is also a big deal for weight.
I had actually bought a new 6354 to use…
But will try the smaller motor…

Unloaded speed on the current set up is about 23mph.
14/36 76mm wheels.
I am going to keep the 14/36 on 76mm because it’s the best I can do.
The smaller motor may not have nearly the same punch… But since it’s 140 kv it may be ok.
Since I’m going to 12S I think unloaded will be around 21

I hope to keep the small motor.
I ran it on a single drive long time ago and it was underwhelming… But I was trying to ride on the street and not the park…

Fingers crossed.

The wheels are the all mighty magical 76mm Ahmyo Akashas.

Smallest esk8 wheels I am aware of…

Also super good.

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THE BUG HAS BITTEN AGAIN

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So building the little battery and slapping the drive train together is all pretty straight forward stuff.

The new challenge for me here is going to be designing the enclosure to 3D print.
I have never designed anything…

I do have a vision.

I want a perimeter with a Lid like what Al did on his board.
Instead of aluminum I’ll just use kydex for the lid.

On the side walls of the enclosure I want to mount the Green rails so they sit above the lid and I can slide the bottom of the board.

I almost wonder if this perimeter case would be better 3d printed or made out wood…

I want to the enclosure to be light. But it has to able to support the Rails…

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Something here isn’t adding up. You mean you’re going to 3D print a shell to wrap fiberglass around?

Actually, wood and fiberglass sounds like a better idea

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This is not the build that is going to bring fiberglass into my life…

I wonder what that build may be some day…

But feel good about my ideas here…

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At one point I pondered making the new skatepark board using the Unlimited Hubs and Independent Trucks.

That would totally solve the whole grinding situation pretty easily…

I decided against that for various reasons.
85mm is at least 5 times bigger than 76mm…

I have not been able to tune the Hubs for torque…

The hubs are much heavier. Even if I tried single drive…

And I would have to dismantle the Rayne Crush.
Which would be a sin.

So we stick to a single belt drive.

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More on the enclosure concept.

The yellow Legos represent what I need to design and 3D print.
Easy right…

I just have to make the side walls strong enough to support the Rails.

Then a basic Kydex lid.

On the rear of the enclosure I want to make a step with the rails to kinda protect the motor mounts…

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I started skateboarding in the late 80s when all the boards had all these extra plastic protectors…

So I have in fact had truck coppers before.

Now almost 40 years later I may actually need some…

I may actually order some and see if I can just cut them and put them on the middle of the back truck…

I am bummed to see Hoyt is not selling the Booger anymore.
I wanted to look up the motor guard they had for the Skatepark version…
@BenjaminF you got a picture those handy by chance?

I think I want to try to emulate it…

So there is a good chance I will keep the second motor mount on, without a motor. To support a little motor cover.

I also expect I may cut/grind these motor mounts so they have a lower profile…

So. Kinda of a lot going on with the desire to grind…

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I dont have one handy, but I’m sure it’s on the Hoyt Instagram somewhere.

We still sell the full booger drivetrain. The armor isnt shown in the pics, but I’m pretty sure it’s included. Maybe ping customer service if you’re interested.

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Thanks. I will peep through Instagram.

I pondered the drivetrain, but I am pretty set on using the BN 145s to keep it narrow.

Putting all these here for inspiration.

I had forgotten about the ramp part.





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One random idea to consider is two pieces of aluminum C-channel that the electronics enclosure slides into and the plastic sliders are mounted on top of the C-channel. No chance of a printed part breaking and the battery getting crushed. Oh I realize the concave deck would make that not work so great… would need custom bent sheet metal.

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I had not thought of an aluminum channel…

I did think of just wooden slats, which would also be flat.
But I am not sure the concave of the deck would make those s deal breaker.

All that really matters is that on the edge the rails sit taller than the lid.

With wood I could even shave an angle…

But I am wondering what would be lightest.

I may still turn to wood if I can’t figure out how to design a 3d printed something.

But I also expect I could 3D print something that is light, but still strong enough to handle the impact…

Maybe I can keep it simple and modify one of Als enclosure sections…

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This is my inspiration for the 3d printed enclosure.

Except just one section and to fit my board obviously…

Al @glyphiks when you printed this what material and infill did you use?.

Was it heavy?

What would you do???
Would you wood it up???

Duuuuuuuude!!!

These copers are gonna be swell!!!

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Okie dokie.

I made a tiny pack yesterday.

So I can really get going now.

12S1P P42A.

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Ok.
So making a battery is always the biggest obstacle off me.

So once I got past that I sent it pretty good.

First I want to talk about my remote choice.

For the skatepark I think a thumb wheel remote would be better.
Your fingers are free for all of the coasting you have to do.

Unfortunately I am a trigger remote guy and the skatepark takes a lot of accuracy with the remote. So I can’t attempt to run a thumb wheel…

I have mostly converted to Z-motes from my old trusty mini remote.

I hold the mini in a particular way that I feel gives me great control at the park.
So I am actually going to use a mini here, even though I have a spare Z-mote I could use.

I am opening up the trigger hole just a little bit to make it easier to slip my fingers in and out.

When I am dropping in on the quarter I don’t like having my finger in there…

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I am doing little things to try to keep the weight down.

The 8 less cells and smaller motor are the biggest deals.

But every little bit counts right…

So despite having perfectly good steel pulleys I am choosing aluminum here.

I also shuffled wheels around, so I can use the slightly smaller FR Akashas, not the DH Akashas.

60 grams is 60 grams!!!

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So I had it all together and got to work on putting the electronics together.

I wanted to make a little packet to tape to the deck similar to what I had done on my Rayne Crush.

I have a theory that if I use VHB tape to attach the stuff to the abs sheet, and then more VHB to attach the abs sheet to the deck it provides a little bit of dampening.


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Lots of hot glue and tape to keep all the connectors in place and the little wires from moving.

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