oh man… those the new 320? they look super sexy…
1 Like
Spoiler alert: it’s not for the MBS side of the MTB spectrum.
FB300 for Infinity baseplate.
12 Likes
question…how do you get the bearing out of the pulley? can’t get them out the “typical” way.
I hammer them out, but you’d better have a new one on-hand before you try that in case it damages the bearings inside. (sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t)
To get them in, I usually use the skateboard axle nut to press them in. Unless I’m at the machine shop, then I use an arbor press. I’m rarely at the machine shop.
1 Like
another thing i’m afraid of is not being able to take the wheel out of the pulley. I saw you post about how to take them out, but then i also saw another post of one completely destroying the wheel/pulley trying to separate it. lol
1 Like
That was a Chinese knockoff wheel.
The old, OG “Boa” wheels were made in California. Then, they got cheap and switched to china B-grade wheels. THOSE cores don’t fit right.
Any “made in California” wheel with a kegel core should be fine, like the @torqueboards wheels for example or Orangatang wheels.
i do have the TB110. Didn’t press the wheel all the way but pretty tight half way in.
1 Like
Honestly you could take the pulley off with your hands. Just wiggle it back and forth little by little… I would be more worried of getting the spacer/spacing absolutely perfect or you’ll destroy the bearing in no time. Good idea to check it every once in awhile to see if it is not seized up
They are fine with kegels and Caguamas and TB wheels.
Just don’t use them with Boas.
Also just don’t buy Boas…
1 Like
Can’t justify their price at 189 euro ea 
any other options? A pretty uncommon gearing you choose for the helicals as there isn’t that many motors with that low kw is there a special reason? Mostly curious 
Most motor are 150-200 but lower than that it gets hard to find I noticed
Use a 16S battery
How would that help? lol then I would need a motor with even lower kv.
Saw that APS got a V2 version anyone know if they are any better?
Not long enough. Torch them then back them out one at a time, don’t try to heat them all at once. There is a phase of threadlocker where it goes from adhesive to lubricant before it turns to powder. Keep heating then occasionally check with the hex key, then heat more if its not budging. It will back out once the locker is broken, the problem is the grub is sitting inside a decent heatsink which is coupled to yet another decent heat sink.
I just had to rebuild these for my drop through witchblade deck to change the angle.
9 Likes
Ahh, I misread. My bad.
2 Likes
It only took a couple of light taps to get the bearings out…easier than i thought.
Then i realized none of my 10mm ID bearings will fit. The pulley has a ~28.5mm opening and I’m not sure what bearing can fit in there for my Evolve trucks.
What is:
- that exact number (probably a whole number of millimeters)
OR - the numbers on the bearing you removed (does it say 638 or 638ZZ?)
i took out the bearing that came with the pulley which is 608.
Evolve requires 10mm ID bearing and the pulley has a 28.8mm opening.
I fail to understand how the 608 bearing was seated into a 28.8mm bore. The 608 has a 22mm outer diameter.
tell me about it…i could be confused as well.
putting in the 6900-2RS bearing to replace the 608 did not fit. So I assume i need a bearing to sit at the bigger opening of the pulley.
1 Like
Ah, okay. You were right the first time.
Remove the 608 bearing and install a 6900-2RS (or 6900ZZ) bearing in its place.
It will fit, they are both 22.00mm outside diameter.
You may need to coerce it.
Sometimes I install it in the wheel with the proper spacer — then use the axle nut on the truck to press the bearing into the pulley. Sometimes that works.
Otherwise, set a pinball in the center hole of the bearing, and tap the ball gently with a hammer maybe?
1 Like