From what I’ve read, there are two different common glow pigments: copper-doped zinc sulfide, and europium/dysprosium-doped strontium aluminate. The ZnS stuff doesn’t glow for that long, and is very cheap. The SrAl stuff lasts many hours, is very much brighter, and is more expensive.
The SrAl particles are very hard and abrasive, much more than the ZnS particles are.
It also depends on the fill percentage.
For how much it abrades? Or do you just mean since it is printing more of it with higher infill?
I was referring to the percentage of the pigment in the filament. Something with 1% abrasive stuff in it will obviously be less hard on the nozzle than something that’s 30% abrasive-filled.
Ahh that makes a whole lot more sense.
Can I put out a request for someone to print me something non esk8 related? It’s almost just about nearly as important as esk8 but not esk8. I’m tryna get a buncha adapters printed to DIY filters for 3m respirator masks. Anyone tryna make a few bucks printing maybe total 25 or so units please hit me up.
anyone wanna do a couple prints for me preferably in petg / abs
prob only <100g of filament and a couple hours of prints
uk
thanks a lot if anyone can
(CA, USA) Anyone kindly print me a set of concave pads for my Trampa Urban Carver, please? Should be able to flex with the deck (TPU?). PM me how much for the job.
Thank you very much.
You’ll have an easier time if you include your location, rough dimensions so people know if they can print it, and ideally what material and specific file you want printed
Woops. Edited with those infos. Thanks.
Tpu might be too flexible for that application but I may be wrong. @ the lowest of the scale, petg would work great. Maybe pla+ but I have my doubts about it. @dani might be able to speak more on a pla+ application
Yeah the thingiverse file says to use TPU, maybe it’s because of the thickness? Doesn’t seem like a great fit to me either but I’m no expert
That pad in PETG will probably crack in no time due to the overhanging geometry. TPU would be fine, it would just compress a little when you stand on it. And a full TPU pad will be less effective for turning leverage. But for ease of use and longevity I’d recommend a TPU with a higher shore hardness. And you can use a higher infill when printing.
Do you have experience with bigger nylon prints? I haven’t used it but it seems like the toughness gives it a bit of compliance if it’s not reinforced with GF or something
Unfilled nylon is significantly less stiff (lower modulus) than PLA or even PETG, but it’s still considered a “hard” plastic. Depending on the exact alloy as well as the geometry and infill it can be either quite rigid, or pretty bendy.
I tend to use it in places where I either need the flexibility, or I need the toughness and the flexibility doesn’t matter.
Never printed Nylon yet, I do have a roll I need to test still.
I haven’t done any big nylon prints, but I’ve gotten about halfway through two different rolls (one of Novamid 1030, and one of Taulman 645).
Here are some of the properties I’ve noticed that may help you or others:
Nice. I want one too, so i can print carbon stuff.
pei with glue?
100% infill TPU is ideal for these. They flex a bit with the deck, but don’t flex when you push down on them with heels or toes as they’re sat against the edge of the deck
That’s really weird. With 645 when I didn’t have the cooling fan on, it turned into a mess. Globs everywhere and had a very uneven and rough finish. I had been trying everything to try to get it to work. In a last ditch effort I turned on the cooling fan to 35%, and it came out looking like PLA. Absolutely no adhesion issues.
