I use the trianglelab’s one. Whatever the rating is. The torque should is directly proportional to the size of the motor and is probably generally same for a given nema size.
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I thought so too… Apparently not.
Got a weak ass nema 17 in a 20mm size and I was having to crank the current scarily high to get it to not skip steps. Pretty sure I could fry bacon on it at times.
Sure enough, the torque was rated lower than another nema 17 stepper in 20mm.
Back story:
Had a few prints recently looking like this on the walls but only randomly.
I thought I must have put a bowden retraction profile on a direct drive printer and that was the excessive retraction. I resliced the file and it printed fine. Then it happened again on another file. I resliced the file and it still looked terrible.
Finally I sat there watching it and saw the motor skipping on the walls. I turned the speed to 80% and you can see the difference it made.
Just figured it was worth sharing in case anyone else has this issue.
Keywords for searching: missing layers, gaps, 3d print
I have a strong suspicion that you have a clog. You shouldn’t retract much in a all metal. It clogs easily.
Try to push filament in manually. If it is easy to do, then you probably have to replace the motor.
I didn’t actually ever retract too much on the direct drive setup though… 0.4mm is my go to.
The filament flows through easily still so I think it is the motor. I was watching it under torque and skip on those nasty spots. I also changed nozzles a few weeks ago and cleaned the hotend out while I was in there but will explore that again if my current hypothesis doesn’t hold up.
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Right after we’re done cooking, I’ll go back in time to see what I did dude. I had the same problem if I remember right. Ended up using some little heat sinks that helps a ton too. Haven’t had any issues with this motor at all.
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Bahaha I was looking at a handful of tiny heat sinks wondering if they’d do anything.
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I stuck some little (like 40mm square) chipset coolers on all my motors just because I could. I know they’re rated to run pretty toasty, but cooler is better in my book.
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Anyone in the Bay Area willing to help me upload Marlin 2.0 on my CR10s Pro? I am sad and desperate 
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If you ship your board to me in a box I’ll do it.
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An one thing to thing to remember is never to mess with the printer or esk8 unless you have another as back up.
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I always had access to a printer at work when I was going through the tinkering phase.
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I had some fun time printing a replacement extruder setup for my only printer lol. Had to make SURE it would work first try, or that I was able to go back to the original.
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You can M906 T0 E650 or lower the current. Hoping you’re not that high already.
I’m using Marlin 2.0 so it might be different. They pushed son PR’s to fix some issues with these pancake motors a little bit back and mine has been running with no modifications at all now.
I think I just got too weak of steppers for my needs. I had to crank the current to get any sort of decent torque to print and I’m scared to set them any higher without better cooling.
I got a slightly larger stepper motor with much better stats.
Old was 20mm and 13 Ncm torque
New is 26mm and 18 Ncm torque.
Any idea what yours are?
I did end up buying this printer for $163. It also has dual lead screw so that’s awesome.
I am probably going to toss the board and the extruder out and replace it with the new mosquito clone hotend+BGM+Agnius’s quick disconnect ribbon cable setup that I am working on. So it will be a good platform to test it out.
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quick noob question. are there any resins (ie in a resin printer) that can work for producing esk8 parts?
My BL touch came with this. I presume it’s for older creality machines without bootloaders?
Deja Vu when I opened the box. Where else in my life have I had to fuck with bootloaders till 3am (st link 
)
If we weren’t locked down, I’d try to hand it off in person.
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Gahh I’ve added it to my cart 4 times now 
Looks like a large sandbox to try new setups on.
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