juuust ordered a sidewinder x1 in the black friday salez. It’s going to be a steep learning curve having not printed anything before, but i’d like to at some point try printing some hubs in petg, nylon or even nylon carbon fiber (as someone on reddit suggested i do). just want to find out what mods i’d need to do so it can handle higher temps…any tips/suggestions? so far i gather an enclosure for the filament (stop the stuff being exposed to dampness), some metal nozzles to manage higher temps (?is that right) and a heatbreaker - though ive no idea the sizes of these things that i’d need to order…
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Don’t think about upgrades until you have 3 to 4 months of printing under the belt.
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any suggestion on what some good starter filament would be to practice?
If you want some good quality I can suggest Colorfabbs pla/pha line. Never had an issue with it.
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Thanks, I’ll check it out. Have you printed any esk8 parts with it?
I get whatever’s cheapest. For engineering grade I print in Alloy 910. PETG can also work well, but I am not a big fan of how it prints.
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Enclosures + 66t and 72t pulleys for pneumatics
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that’s great. The sort of things I’ll want to print.
I’ll take a look 
Just bought a cr10s pro v2 and a Titan aero with Capricorn tubing
What other upgrades are recommended as I only want to upgrade once
Also what firmware do people recommend
Thanks
Ask us about upgrades only after you have spent some time getting used to it first. Just buying upgrades won’t do you any good.
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What all metal hotend is the easiest to upgrade to?
I don’t like messing with firmware so would like to do that as little as possible
Cr10 pro v2 is my printer
Don’t mind either direct drive or all metal hotend
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Ok thanks for the link, tho seems expensive to me : you need an all metal hot end + all metal heatbreak to raise temperature, mainly. High heat nozzle too. Next you need a temp sensor powerful enough and good isolation between the hot areas and the rest of the machine.
Insane for sure but just a V6 Volcano block + metal heatbreak will ensure you can print any material used for esk8. No need to go above 260°c for quality Nylon for example and no need either to go above 280-285°c for polycarbonate.
Note that over heating filaments above their ratings won’t do any good either (you’ll just burn them).
The only time when 500°c upgrade would be useful is for printing stuff like Teflon filament, and I’m not sure any consumer grade printer has the ability to properly print this level of material. It’d be a call for trials and errors and possibly repairs before getting the correct setting.
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Both are not contradictory and you might seek direct drive if possible just because it tremendously helps for printing flexible TPU.
Flashing Marlin will be required anyway.
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K thanks man
I realise the 500c is not for me but in theory for someone who needs… seems quite cool
Which direct drive do you recommend?
the cr-10s pro v2 is a great printer, but not the most popular, and it shares most of its design w/ the cr-10s pro v1, not any of the other cr-10 models. So mod support isn’t the greatest. Bondtech makes a great dd conversion, otherwise I’d grab a bmg clone and try to find a print kit for the cr-10s pro v2 and your hot end of choice.
I’d also print a bunch of things on the stock machine first because there’s a non-zero chance it will never print anything ever again after you mod it.
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Thanks man
That’s the reason I want the easiest direct drive upgrade
Was looking into the Titan aero but will check about bondtech
Receiving the printer on Tuesday and I will have to build it then
k thanks
but are there anything you should always do in order not to break it
for example someone i saw online talked about anti backlash nuts
Are you currently having issues though?
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