Aw so close
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VESC ESK8 top mount enclosure by itouchtreesforscience - Thingiverse)
Work in progress but itās open for all. Remixed from user name Pathizar on thingiverse.
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I wish people would stop using Thingiverse. It is such a bad website. Cool design nontheless.
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What are you thinking of for material? 95a tpu?
Could be convinced to model one if I end up using it for a re-bms project.
I bet you could @glyphiks a model on McMaster or grab cad.
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Was just thinking of printing it in PETG, I donāt have any TPU filament. Probably print one of the listed ones people have linked, but thanks for the offer.
Fawk yes. Thangs is a million times better.
Let me know what model you end up using.
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someone asked for this awhile back. @Cyanoacrylate
a 44 RedEmber.
https://www.printables.com/model/480671-44-re
good enough to model an enclosure off of. based on iPhone 3d scans. Skilled modelers, by all means improve it if you want a modeling exercise. ill break out the calipers and measure as directed.
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I ended up printing the one with the Lacroix logo. Donāt know if it was my print settings but inner ring was too tight and I had to dremel it a bit to get it to fit. The cap is very snug and can be hard to remove without a tool to pry it off (hopefully means I wonāt lose it 
)
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Iām building a 16s1p pack and donāt want to deal with cells vibrating against each other or relying on the welds so Iām trying to make a rigid frame for them to sit in, and I want to check if anyone sees any obvious problems with the design
I want it to be stiff in the Y axis in this drawing, along the length of the board, because thatās the orientation of the welds. As a result itās designed to be printed standing up, so the 45Ā° slopes are to minimise support. I want to avoid insulating the cells as much as possible so a lot of one side is cut away. There are also dividers modelled into the part on one side to keep adjacent nickel tabs from touching (probably overkill, but I saw it in a drill battery pack I opened and it seems like a nice touch) and insert slots to add dividers on the other but still allow it to be printed on that face. The current plan is to epoxy the cells into place by making the holes slightly loose, but I was also thinking about making the hole ovular so thereās a gap only at the bottom. The part below is one of two side by side in the board, and the photo above is a slightly older test print
Battery Holder with separation tabs.stl (244.4 KB)
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I donāt like those āslide inā things for the cells because they tend to destroy the wrapping around them, but I guess if you get the tolerance right it should not be an issue
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A cool addition might be to make the rails thinner and concave, so you can glue in fiberglass rods or carbon flats (but be careful with carbon and electricity ofc). That would let you skeletonize both sides to improve thermals
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Oooh thanks yeah thatās an interesting idea, itās taking me a sec to digest. Iām a bit hesitant because of the extra complexity. Do you mean running those members parallel to the cells, or perpendicular (Edit: ohh right so cut out a groove in the length of the rails and add a bar that way?). That makes sense actually, I think thereās ~2.5mm of height from edge of cell to edge of the part, but would there be sufficient bonding between the part and the FG? I guess I could easily widen the rail so thereās contact on three faces of a bar or 50+% of a round rod, but Iām already a bit uncertain how well Iād be able to guarantee the bond between a single part and the cells
On a related note:
Yeah that was a problem on the first test part, I forgot printed internal diameters contract a bit so the cells didnāt fit in at all. At present they all slide in with just a small bit of resistance but doesnāt mark the wraps, except for some reason one slot is loose. I feel like I should unwrap them so Iām bonding to the cells instead of the plastic, thereās a solid divider between them all but it still makes me nervous
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Yeah you donāt want a balance wire rubbing against a naked cell casing
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Yeah sorry I forgot to mention the idea is to run the balance leads on the bottom, nothing except maybe a thermal probe on the exposed side. Maybe on the rails or a fish paper raft? Either way definitely not on bare cells
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Yes, perpendicular to augment the stiffness of the rails. In order to be effective at strain relieving your welds, the stiffness of this structure should be significantly greater than the stiffness of the nickel plates. So, if your bending beam is composed of materials that have a much higher stiffness than plastic, youāll go a long way towards that goal.
You donāt necessarily have to worry about maximum bond strength for this, since the design is stiffness driven instead of strength driven. Technically, a 1 psi bond will still provide the same stiffness, itāll just snap immediately as soon as you start riding. Make it decent enough and it should do its job. The epoxy bond with the print will actually be the limiting factor on strength, not the epoxy bond with the rod, since the rod is already manufactured using epoxy.
Itās hard to find flat fiberglass rods unfortunately, but if youāre feeling spicy enough to use carbon you can definitely fit a ton of reinforcement that way.
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cheers thatās all helpful I think!
This is similar to what I was worrying about; thereās just not a huge amount of plastic to bond to the FG and I was concerned about it acting a bit too much like separate pieces. But I think this is a gap in my ability to visualise, I assume for the GF to not take up the stress it would have to fully detach and slide past the plastic and still have enough play for the plastic to flex.
Is it possible (or I guess is it reasonable) that an imperfect bond to the plastic could act as or look like a sort of flexible point? If the epoxy itself is super stiff but it can only connect to the surface of the plastic and it just pulls a printed perimeter line a bit loose something similar?
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