@Africaans I believe these are all the same:
Edit: added above
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Aerodynamic wheel covers for Rockstar hubs. Do they actually do anything? Maybe? They keep the wheel clean at least, and itās only 12g. Plus it looks like a black hole when itās clean. Printed in PLA, clips on and off via the bearing seat part so the valve doesnāt get in the way. Stands up to jumps, manuals, and at least 25mph which is the fastest my board usually goes. Also has enough wiggle room to allow for angled valves, but that makes it a bit rattly at times. May or may not fit a Fivestar as well, donāt have one to test with.
Wheel Cover Aeromax v6.f3d (188.7 KB)
Aeromax Cover.stl (226.7 KB)
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If you still got these, Iām also interested 
I found out that there was a flaw in those designs. Never fixed it as I moved to gears and sprockets.
Whipped up some quick Matrix II +5 and -5 wedges. These are based on the (official?) Matrix II model, so the fit is a perfect match to the baseplate.
https://www.printables.com/model/218923-matrix-ii-truck-5-degree-wedge
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I have spectacularly goofed up printing this, apparently I scaled up the upright by about 20% and only realised after 18 hours of print time
Iām gonna reprint a set of crossbars and pins at the same scaling and just have one big chungus stand. Might have to make little feet for the non scaled one when I eventually print that too to lift it up to the same level
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This is a new way to bork a print; the bed adhesion was super strong, but the build surface yanked itself off the bed. Iām assuming itās my fault - I may have annoyed the printer because I built a little makeshift house for him. Cardboard box with no front face, I got the dimensions mostly right but the construction isnāt great because I donāt have a staple gun no structural support inside. Itās also got a big roll of car sound isolation foam on top of it because I had it lying around and the purpose was sound and dust isolation more than thermal insulation. Worked fairly well for a set of calibration squares and the first oversized upright, but I turned the build surface 180Ā° so I could patch the PVA coating and use the same Gcode. Must not have secured it well enough
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Iām not sure what happened here, but I love that you tried to print the boardstand!
How do you accidentally scale a part?
If you want a larger version, I just finished designing a slightly revised 9" boardstand with fully printable parts (angled pins instead of round).
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Iām not gonna even to pretend to know for sure, just donāt underestimate my capacity for dumbfuckery. What I reckon happened is I was attempting to rotate it to position and used the wrong tool while severely inattentive?
Also Iāve now attempted about 5 times, I further pissed off the printer by overtightening the X axis and got huge layer shift. This is my reward for doing preventative maintenance and trying to get it all set up nicely
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Hereās a cooling fan to bolt on top of APS 80100 motors and any other rebrand that uses this can:
it mounts with M5 socket screws, 10-20mm long. In my testing it cut my motor temp from 45C-50C to 35C, in ambient conditions of 20C.
80100 impeller.stl (6.6 MB)
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Iām working on Rims and Gearboxes.
Once I got something useful will post here.
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Hereās the STL for my double sided loop key:
double_sided_loop_key.stl (79.6 KB)
double_sided_loop_key.3mf (60.0 KB)
The loop key needs to be soldered very compact.
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What if mud goes in the holes while riding, and when you flip it around to turn it off, you get mud on the metal bullet connectors?
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Hm, good point. I havenāt thought of that. I may need to make a cover.
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Why do you need a cap, if the loopkey is only pulled while itās not being ridden, and, hence, not getting dirty?
The cap fits both sides.
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But why not just the key? What purpose do the printed bits serve?
The only time it seems filth might enter the keyhole is while riding, and the key is always in the hole while riding. In the closet when the key is out it wouldnāt seem to get that dirty to need a cap.
The idea is that after pulling the loop-key out, you flip it over and you plug the plastic side into the loop-key slot, so that you donāt lose it.
Then while riding the plastic side is exposed to dirt so it needs a cap. When the board is off and stored the cap can go on the āliveā side of the loop-key so that you donāt lose the cap.
So basically the workflow is:
-
to turn it on:
- unplug the loop key
- remove the cap
- flip the loop key over
- put the cap back on
- re-insert the loop key
-
to turn it off:
- ditto
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This is what I was missing. I guess I never had that problem. 
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