Like mentioned before, can cut, and cut well are two different things, the cutting aspect is the router and bits, quality on both of those CAN cut the aluminum, where the key is the structural integrity of the frame and the accuracy of the movements to create the quality finish. If you build a budget hobby grade cnc, expect hobby grade parts. Now I’m not saying you won’t make nice usable parts, but just don’t expect the finish to be something like you see a custom shop on tv or interweb building. I’ve actually been researching the diy route myself but have not really settled on any one design yet as I just see myself outgrowing them quickly, and I find something about each that I dont really care for for one reason or another, suppose I want it all and it’s just not happening in my budget lol. But I entertain the idea of printed parts to assemble a cnc.
While that is certainly true, there are some things that mean that cost parity with AM machines (or even close) isn’t likely to happen anytime soon.
The main one is rigidity. Subtractive manufacturing requires that you have a tool that can cut your workpiece.
Other than a few edge cases like laser and EDM, pretty much all methods of cutting a thing, require you to exert force on said thing. Often quite a lot of force.
That means that the level of stiffness and strength of the whole motion system on a subtractive machine has to be far, FAR higher than is needed for a 3d printer.
To get stiffer machines, the easiest way is to just add more mass. Make everything heavier, thicker, more solid.
No more extruded aluminum that’s mostly air.
The cheapest materials for this are either granite (yes, the stone), or cast iron. Both are SUUUUUPER heavy, but very cheap compared to aluminum. Which is good, because it’s not unreasonable that you’re going to need an order of magnitude more (by weight) of it for a similar-sized machine.
The next thing is the motion system itself.
Not only do you have to exert more force (cutting forces, remember?), but you also now have to move a much heavier machine. So the motors get bigger, the drive system gets bigger (and usually switches from belts to leadscrews or ballscrews), and all that costs money too.
It’s totally possible to build or buy a CNC router that will cut aluminum. But for $1k, it’s not going to do it well.
Here’s a shining example of a “proper” DIY CNC router that can chew through aluminum all day like it’s butter. But I can tell you that just the motion system alone cost well over a grand.
Do small manual mills exist? Back in college, I used to use a full size Bridgeport, but there’s no way I’m gonna be able to get one under $5k, let alone fit one in an apartment. It seems like all the desktop mills I can find are CNC, and I reckon a manual one should be cheaper if they even exist.
They do indeed. Sherline makes both a mini mill and a mini lathe, as well as a lot of the other machine sellers like Grizzly, Harbor Freight, Seig, and others.
You gotta set your expectations to a reasonable level though, such small machines are not very rigid or powerful, so you have to use them gently to avoid too much deflection.
I converted a smaller BF20/G0704/PM25 type manual mill to CNC for about 5k, im still working on the conversion and has taken me 6 months already (with lots of help from others). The process teaches you alot though. For parts you dont want to cut much in cost because you will have a bad time, I already noticed this with some cheaper components I got. Something like this would cost at least 4k taking into account tooling and assecoires necessary to get up and running. Your best bet is to buy a CNC converted mill second hand. You wont be able to make a new one cheaper and it can save you up to 2k.
A good router to start with is the Ooznest workbee CNC great machine for cutting some aluminium plates. Apex customs run these as well.
Assembling the printed compression pack!
Got my mount and wheel pulley on as well as the enclosure, man I love 3dprinting
Oh I wasn’t even thinking about converting it to CNC. I’m totally fine with manual milling so long as I have a DRO. It’s not going to be used for commercial purposes, so labor isn’t an issue, and I enjoy the machining process.
I have a Seig minimill…It should do the job, but tons of backlash, so go ver slow with them…unless it is automated and then it would be an easy job for the minimill…
Do you have verified fitment on the twistar? I thought I read before this was a different mounting situation.
Yes sir, every gear I’ve posted I’ve 100% used and abused - most are the final of a number of small revisions.
And if you want a better fit I highly suggest using brass threaded inserts (mcmastercarr has them) in lieu of nuts.
Hi @mmaner are you able to make one of these with power port and switch integrated ?
Been searching for someone selling a metro board X one or something similar.
Hi, will 6.6 dual plus fit into that? Also is there a room for BT module?
Trampa wand sleeve with integrated lupine remote:
Does anyone have the .stl of Trampa superstar bolt holes? I just need the bolt holes pattern… or the .stl of a Trampa superstar pulley etc.
Stupid computer doesn’t like un-zipping files
Thanks!
Anyone have mbs fiverstar/prostar hub stl so I don’t have to buy them lol
what you gonna print it in?
3D printing aluminium 