Whipped up some quick Matrix II +5 and -5 wedges. These are based on the (official?) Matrix II model, so the fit is a perfect match to the baseplate.
https://www.printables.com/model/218923-matrix-ii-truck-5-degree-wedge
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I have spectacularly goofed up printing this, apparently I scaled up the upright by about 20% and only realised after 18 hours of print time
I’m gonna reprint a set of crossbars and pins at the same scaling and just have one big chungus stand. Might have to make little feet for the non scaled one when I eventually print that too to lift it up to the same level
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This is a new way to bork a print; the bed adhesion was super strong, but the build surface yanked itself off the bed. I’m assuming it’s my fault - I may have annoyed the printer because I built a little makeshift house for him. Cardboard box with no front face, I got the dimensions mostly right but the construction isn’t great because I don’t have a staple gun no structural support inside. It’s also got a big roll of car sound isolation foam on top of it because I had it lying around and the purpose was sound and dust isolation more than thermal insulation. Worked fairly well for a set of calibration squares and the first oversized upright, but I turned the build surface 180° so I could patch the PVA coating and use the same Gcode. Must not have secured it well enough
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I’m not sure what happened here, but I love that you tried to print the boardstand!
How do you accidentally scale a part?
If you want a larger version, I just finished designing a slightly revised 9" boardstand with fully printable parts (angled pins instead of round).
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I’m not gonna even to pretend to know for sure, just don’t underestimate my capacity for dumbfuckery. What I reckon happened is I was attempting to rotate it to position and used the wrong tool while severely inattentive?
Also I’ve now attempted about 5 times, I further pissed off the printer by overtightening the X axis and got huge layer shift. This is my reward for doing preventative maintenance and trying to get it all set up nicely
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Here’s a cooling fan to bolt on top of APS 80100 motors and any other rebrand that uses this can:
it mounts with M5 socket screws, 10-20mm long. In my testing it cut my motor temp from 45C-50C to 35C, in ambient conditions of 20C.
80100 impeller.stl (6.6 MB)
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I’m working on Rims and Gearboxes.
Once I got something useful will post here.
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Here’s the STL for my double sided loop key:
double_sided_loop_key.stl (79.6 KB)
double_sided_loop_key.3mf (60.0 KB)
The loop key needs to be soldered very compact.
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What if mud goes in the holes while riding, and when you flip it around to turn it off, you get mud on the metal bullet connectors?
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Hm, good point. I haven’t thought of that. I may need to make a cover.
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Why do you need a cap, if the loopkey is only pulled while it’s not being ridden, and, hence, not getting dirty?
The cap fits both sides.
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But why not just the key? What purpose do the printed bits serve?
The only time it seems filth might enter the keyhole is while riding, and the key is always in the hole while riding. In the closet when the key is out it wouldn’t seem to get that dirty to need a cap.
The idea is that after pulling the loop-key out, you flip it over and you plug the plastic side into the loop-key slot, so that you don’t lose it.
Then while riding the plastic side is exposed to dirt so it needs a cap. When the board is off and stored the cap can go on the “live” side of the loop-key so that you don’t lose the cap.
So basically the workflow is:
-
to turn it on:
- unplug the loop key
- remove the cap
- flip the loop key over
- put the cap back on
- re-insert the loop key
-
to turn it off:
- ditto
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This is what I was missing. I guess I never had that problem. 
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Lucky you. I can’t even find my second charger. 
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Well I have like 5 missing chargers. But still all 13 loopkeys…
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I had a plan to create it 
can anyone point me to a battery jig for glueing 21700s?
in payment, here’s the connector port file I’m using
MR60_Panel_Mount_v1_Sensor_Port.stl (105.1 KB)