whooooooooooooooooooooooooo
damn. might as well go 21700
I spent $16 on shrink wrap (shit Ace hardware prices) for this project. Thatās more than half the cost of the cells in the battery. The cells are probably like 1/3 or a 1/4 of the cost of the pack. Itās wacky.
Iām at Serinehās house. No Eskate stuff here. Let me look through email receipt history.
I also closed those crimps with a vice. So, that helps. I sold a few bits of neglected gear and am jettisoning projects I donāt love.
Iāll finish my packs in 4s configurations. Bc @MoeStooge at 8s, me at 12s, and future me at 16s all might have a use for them.
Donāt try to make a tall stack like mine with the vice method. You would need about 7 hands.
My pack is ready to charge up
This was the cause of no reading the the balance lead. Making sure you get the wires flat before crimping and having no cold solder is important. Iām lucky this was the very top/bottom cell I did first before I figured out what I was doing.
Easier said than done, I am aware of this. Itās like surgery on a semi conscious electric eel
#iimmediatelyregretthisdecision
Shipping from batthookup wasnt too bad to EU. but you have to order minimum 50 cells for it to be worth it.
It took 4 months for it to get here cause the handling is questionable at best from hookup, but it did get here and support was helpful but slow.
This is a regular thing when crushing a solder joint. itās advised not to solder then apply lage amount of compression.
Think of a glass sheet very strong can stand on it. Drop a spanner on it and it shatters everywhere
I would probably drill a hole in the battry tap push the cable in and solder that with a lot of flux
Alright guys, I am going yet another route: I will solder the cell tabs.
I am still deciding whether to solder
- tab-tab directly and then just bend them into zigzag
- tab-copperbraid-tab
you should use some mechanical fastening in addition to soldering.
What shape you making?
Two zigzag packs next to each other, with each level connected in parallel, in a Pelican 1400.
If the cells donāt move relative to each other I would expect the solder to be sufficient - itās not bearing any forces apart from vibrations. Or why do you think it needs mechanical fastening on top?
just be be safe, and mostly because itās easy to add not but not later
Iām gonna wear my triple 8 bc the TSG has a tinted visor
I was just about to ask which helmet youād wear! 
If you use bolts (and some busbar to distribute the pressure), you donāt need any crimp or wireā¦
this should work for the balance leads, It is better to have solder for the solid connection, and it is only reasonably possible to solder to the crimps before attaching to the cells.
So you could try to solder the balance lead to the top of the crimp, loop it through the inside of the crimp then attach for a reliable connection. Something like this. The crimps are halla easy to solder to.
Linking the issues Iām having here.
Iām thinking these cells are not quite good enough for a 1P, at least not using them like their specs for them new say you can. 2P would be good. I think testing and pairing cells is more crucial than I thought, and I was thinking it would be important for making a good battery but it seems pertinent to making a properly working pack at all with these cells.
I am looking at cell testers now. I think I will just settle for a 4 bay cheap cell tester if I donāt find something else.
Not sure about your budget but I can recommend the B&K Precision 8600. Its really easy to work with.
The gui for PC is pretty shit but you can do alot just fiddling with settings without a PC.