sadly, this is mostly true. we could not cram them in a trampa monster box… perhaps with a bigger lunchbox we could put these to work, but yeah they are massive…
@Arzamenable
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Need a custom board built around the packs, kinda like a stoogboard, in order to fit 12S2P.
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I watched a video where a guy placed some plumbers solder and flux between the tabs, clamped them together and then just heated up the tabs with a propane torch. The heat didn’t give me much confidence but they looked like they held alright. Personally I’d use some thicc bus bars
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The tabs is alu plated copper on the negative tab, and pure alu on the positive. You guys need a special flux for alu, then its possible to solder together. You can buy the flux in Poland.
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Or TIG weld 
If you solder with the flux, you need a to do in a fume hood. The flux is an acid flux that is VERY aggressive. It needs to be to eat away the oxide layer.
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I’m starting to plan an electric motorcycle, and intend to use these packs. For those of you who have them, how outrageous would 20s5p be? Ignoring the danger associated with that kind of power, would it be feasible to make a pack like that? Also, the 5p would mostly be for range, so I was also thinking that a slightly less capable cell could get the job done, but I really don’t want to spot weld 300 18650 cells. Also, that 20s5p pack would weight about 30kg, which is reasonable for a motorcycle, but still heavy.
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I’m pretty sure you weren’t speaking literally but 20s5p is 100 cells…
Anyways, for a motorcycle I think 1000amps should be easily enough, Sur Ron runs 800amps and 60v.
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Yeah I realized that, which is why I was thinking it was a little crazy. Maybe I’ll look for used electric car battery units. I don’t really need all 1,000 amps, I plan on using about half that. The motor that I’m looking at can handle 72 volts at 450 amps peak.
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ME1616?
I don’t see your idea as crazy. I’m looking at these cells for a DIY EV build. If you are having trouble looking for components such as chargers, DC-DC converters, controllers etc slide into the dms
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added some photos of the package I got today.
over 33 lb boxes idk how they ship these for free
oh and I wanted to mention that they are actually packed properly. not floating around a box getting banged up, they are touching another cell but they have the flexible edges so thats ok prob.
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These are my best bet for easily connecting all 160 easily I guess. No acid flux and shit lol.
could you give more pics/info on the process?
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, u got that many cells?
I soldered balance leads and pack mains to clamps, them pinched them down with a vice grip plier. Then stuck in a vice with nylon pads to completely mush together. It is a pain only in that your serial connections are real close to each other if you are doing accordion style stacking.
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Jesus that thing is massive - I’m running a 10s1p on my Jank. even going to 12s2p would be a stretch on something like an Atom 90.
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haha yeah that’s why I was trying to get info about those crimp things before i spend uhhhhhhhhhhh
on them.
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Oh, 160 crimps 
, no wait you are serious.
I tried to make my own with copper tubing I hammered out. That was a shit show. Even if easy, the copper will corrode, which matters if you have a pack the size of the bus they originally came from
I made a few of my own crimps with punched holes that kinda gave them teeth like the commercial ones, but the grip was lacking.
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I’m deaf fucking serious.
I found these ones with a barrel thing to put 10awg wire in.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-329254-4.html
cost like nothing more, should I avoid them so I can use larger 8 awg wire? is that necessary even on a go kart?
I like the reliable connection they would have on the wire.
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The plain flat ones were very easy to solder on. I would not use those barrel connections with only mechanical crimp.
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Do you have vesc telemetry for what current draws vs time looks like?
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