this man sent a video of him doing over 20mph on this thing, as a witness I’d say yes
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I kinda wanna make a super light weight longboard with a 12s1p
I did 2.5 miles and the battery was still at 48.6V 
and what Evan said 
I have it set to 80A/-80A Motor, 30A/-16A battery and it has so much torque at all speeds. It’s awesome. So awesome it’ll do wheelies if you don’t have your front foot all the way forward
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Im so proud of you Joey, this build is great!
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Holy. I never thought a 3D printed housing could come out so clean! Ive been sitting on a like 80% finished DIY Riptide R1 for the better part of a year. The housing is the last part i need! I was planning on making a wooden enclosure for a more premium Look and feel, but this is probably an easier solution that’ll get me to actually finish the damn thing.
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Have you done a proper range test? I’m curious as to the range you are getting from this build. @JoeyZ5
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I get around ~26 miles/41km with my 12s2p (similar specs) on a 29” penny board style deck. Would be interesting to compare them.
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I think the farthest I’ve gone on a charge is 12 miles, but now that I’m at school the board is pushed a lot harder. I think I get like 6 miles because the hills here are sooooo steep.
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.
I’m fairly small, total board+rider+“tool box” is probably around 140lb/63kg.
P42A 12s2p with a single belt drive; 15t+30t; 6374 190kv. It’s a very nice, light setup and it has lots of torque on high mode (VX2). I usually keep it on low mode due to its commuter nature and the single motor (pulling to the side).
Its rolling resistance is so low that it consumes very little power on straight stretches and while cruising.
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Do you think your single motor setup would remain this efficient if it were single motor, dual drive? @yoyotinker
What do you think @b264
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Probably not, even if I used something like 2x 6354 or even 50xx motors.
Rolling resistance would double and the system would use more juice from the battery, increasing the overall wh/mi number.
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Sorry, I misread your question.
Not too sure about single motor, dual drive. I think it would be less efficient due to frictional losses, and so the wh/mi number would increase.
I’m not as familiar with single motor, dual drive systems.
I don’t think driving both wheels [on the same axle] would affect much of anything except slamming on the brakes enough to skid. Then it would make a huge difference. For the better? IDK maybe. Maybe not. But definitely a huge difference. I personally think it’s fun when you slam on the brake and your board cocks sideways, it’s like street surfing. 
The torquesteer on a single drive is an interesting academic thought experiment, but in the real world you get used to it almost immediately and it doesn’t really matter much.
The OCD from knowing your board isn’t symmetrical is the real actual killer here.
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The sideways pull while braking does take some time to get used to.
How would custom motor shafts be sourced for a similar single motor/dual drive system? Generic steel shafts from McMaster/similar?
I would not recommend changing motor shafts, as it seems like begging for a failure. The diciest spot on a typical skate sized BLDC motor is the shaft-to-rotor interface, that’s usually the first thing that fails on a motor. I personally would not take it apart and reassemble it there.
A lot of BLDC motors were designed for aircraft and then adapted for skate use. A lot of the manufacturers can probably put a long shaft on both ends if asked to.
Good point, disassembling motors is outside of my wheelhouse right now anyways.
Any idea if something like this has been undertaken before on here? (either custom replacement shafts or outsourced)
Yes, a couple folks have done this, but I’m fresh out of links right now. I’m hoping the community can dig into their memory banks and help us out with some HTTP HYPERLINKS
Hype er links? I barely knew er!
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Isn’t this what CarvON did with some of their boards? They used 1 way bearings to act like a differential?