ZBoard Nano [Building Stage] | 121c Orbiter | BN184 - M1 GD - BN6384 - Adjustable Baseplates | 12s1p P42A | TB110s |

Probably not, even if I used something like 2x 6354 or even 50xx motors.

Rolling resistance would double and the system would use more juice from the battery, increasing the overall wh/mi number.

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Sorry, I misread your question.

Not too sure about single motor, dual drive. I think it would be less efficient due to frictional losses, and so the wh/mi number would increase.

I’m not as familiar with single motor, dual drive systems.

I don’t think driving both wheels [on the same axle] would affect much of anything except slamming on the brakes enough to skid. Then it would make a huge difference. For the better? IDK maybe. Maybe not. But definitely a huge difference. I personally think it’s fun when you slam on the brake and your board cocks sideways, it’s like street surfing. :crazy_face:

The torquesteer on a single drive is an interesting academic thought experiment, but in the real world you get used to it almost immediately and it doesn’t really matter much.

The OCD from knowing your board isn’t symmetrical is the real actual killer here.

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The sideways pull while braking does take some time to get used to.

How would custom motor shafts be sourced for a similar single motor/dual drive system? Generic steel shafts from McMaster/similar?

I would not recommend changing motor shafts, as it seems like begging for a failure. The diciest spot on a typical skate sized BLDC motor is the shaft-to-rotor interface, that’s usually the first thing that fails on a motor. I personally would not take it apart and reassemble it there.

A lot of BLDC motors were designed for aircraft and then adapted for skate use. A lot of the manufacturers can probably put a long shaft on both ends if asked to.

Good point, disassembling motors is outside of my wheelhouse right now anyways.

Any idea if something like this has been undertaken before on here? (either custom replacement shafts or outsourced)

Yes, a couple folks have done this, but I’m fresh out of links right now. I’m hoping the community can dig into their memory banks and help us out with some HTTP HYPERLINKS

Hype er links? I barely knew er!

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Isn’t this what CarvON did with some of their boards? They used 1 way bearings to act like a differential?

Here’s a single motor, dual drive emtb

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Only applies for low power and stiff bushings. When I had a motor die on my Kaly, it was borderline unrideable even without the drag of the other motor.

The setup type impacts low power vs high power setups differently. No doubt something of that caliber wouldn’t work as well.

This type (fairly low power) doesn’t have much of an impact on sideways pull. I am running 85a bushings and don’t have issues. Still, I can make it to low 30s (mph) with a 1:2 gearing.

When full power is applied, the board can throw me off if I’m not careful. Plenty of torque.

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Don’t forget about the kilometer long hangers on the Kaly versus some 145mm hangers.

Does that actually make a difference?

I used to run single motor on a low power build and I had no issues. 184mm hanger single 5065

The longer hangers seem to have more torquesteer

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I’m sure it’s very noticeable in high power builds, as well as breaksteer.

I imagine having the motor symmetrically mounted between both motor mounts is ideal, and would reduce our eliminate this.

I was talking about when only one wheel is powered.

Yea, I know.

So torquesteer is not an issue on your high powered 1wd builds? Not even on The Red One | Lance Mountain | TB130 | 12S LiFePO4 | VESC 6

When I’m riding this board the drive wheel usually breaks traction before I feel any significant torquesteer

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It’s not.

Bigfoot has more torque than that one