Printed the left one in PETG. 0.2 layer. walls 2.49 mm and 20% infill. The support came off ok easy, but not super clean. They seem very sturdy. Will print the the right with 0% infill to see how that goes. I think it doesn’t need infill.
This might work, stand on it and see what happens.
Generally I don’t like parts in bending with thin walls unsupported, it could cause buckling.
Take an empty soda bottle and bend it. At some points the wall will buckle in and it won’t support your load any longer. This is basically it.
You want the whole thing to hold your load together, without relative motion.
Those bindings are going to have a ton of force on them during hard acceleration and hair pins… Do you really want to rely on something hollow when you’re going over 35mph? Resolution doesn’t need to be very high for something like this, probably why print time is so high
Just saw on your blog that you have done stress analysis on the hooks? Will read that later.
I am jumping up and down on the hook with 20% infill. Very very sturdy. So I naturally thought how much infill is really needed. And it is my understanding thats its the wall thats decides the most how tuff they are?
This is true. But only if the walls stay in place relative to each other (this is the job of the infill)
Think about an I-beam, or a sandwich structure.
I’m glad that 20% worked for you, that must be the added strength of the PETG.
You might experiment with less infill, just don’t cancel it entirely.
How thick should the walls be on the hooks? I’ll probably print the v3 hooks in PETG, but whatever works for PLA should be as good or better in PETG, I assume.
5% infill. Starting to become a little flexible compared to the 20% infill that were rock solid. Think this will hold fine though. But would properly bump the infill a little to get the rock solid feeling.
@dani what would be the best orientation to attach V2s to the deck so that it doesn’t hit the bolts(and doesn’t risk breaking them off)? Right now I found only one orientation that worked without posing a risk of flexing the baseplate and ripping the bolt heads off. Yet still, the binding is hitting the bolts…
I have noticed this. my baseplates are bowed a bit and I’m using 3 bolts on the outer slots, and two of them are near the middle right next to each other. I think spreading them out more and having one on the inner slot will stop that but I don’t want to put more holes in my deck.
With my real foot I want the Yobis all the way down touching the plate to be comfortable. Fake foot doesn’t really care about comfort though, just that it stays on the board.
@Murloc992 you could make divots on the bottom of the foot hook where the bolts protrude? Then you can move it all the way down. I had to shave some plastic from the side of mine where I had a temporary super long bolt protruding and dremeled away some material to fit perfect. Perhaps this will be your solution.