Hahaha, thanks. Finally pull some trigger to make this happen. The prototype was made in Indonesia, but this batch production is in China. And yea… what an experience! Learn how to deal with them, long distance quality check 
, importing stuff from china, custom thingy 
, and also langue barrier kinda frustrating sometimes 
. But i’m glad they’ll be here today…
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Yeh I know the feeling and for you is actually closer than for us 
well i got some problem with this batch tho, lessons learned, I hate long distance relationship, now i know that for sure
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Available for limited set only, if you are interested, give me PM.
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i use sketchup as well.
What file do you give them? The STL?
And I guess they just have a guy that “traces”/copys it in solidworks or whatever?
Ya, the skp file, for modeling. Yes, they have drafter who redraw it to x_t file and send me the pdf drawing to check before start machining.
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Beautiful!
Would you offer anodizing service?, I’ll be happy to do it to my mounts
I can Anodized whatever color you want, but your mounting is already on it’s way to you .
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i have 5sets that i hold because i want to put color on it, it just some fun project for me haha, @eBoosted requesting for full red/orange color, i can do any color, or mix color between plate & press fit. Anyone also interested in SR RKP Mounting custom color? 
mix color will look interesting for SR trucks i think.
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Since esk8builders forum is down, i’ll update here.
@eBoosted @Winfly @Brianr058 @okp (is he here?)
XTLA SR MOUNTING INSTALLATION GUIDE
TOOLS
- L key for M4 motor and mounting bolts; for hanger M5 insert thread; for shoulder bolt.
- Hex key for m4 bolt to secure the plate-press fit
HOW TO INSTAL
- Use the shoulder bolt and some spacer to press fit
- Put some spacer on the shoulder bolt and press the mounting gently using the L key
- Remove the shoulder bolt
- Put the insert thread in, but not torque them in
- Place the mounting plate
- Find your correct angle
- Fix the plate to the press fit using m4 bolts 16mm
- If you already sure about your angle, secure the bolts using m4 lock nut. At this stage hold the m4 bolt using L key and roll in the lock nut using hex key, if you find it difficult because of the lock nut position, you can remove the hanger from the baseplate, it’ll be easier for some angles.
- Secure the shoulder bolt using insert thread will be a bit tricky. You’ll need to shorten the L key a bit on the short side of the L. Standard L key that you have maybe will hit the plates area. Patiently torque them in repeatedly.
- Installing your motor with M4 bolts 10mm
IDLER
You will need:
- Aluminum standoffs with m4 thread, OD 6mm; ID m4
- M4 bolt button head
- M4 washer
- Bearing with ID 6mm or custom idler
If you have any questions, let me know.
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I should be able to figure it out. But a quick video would be cool
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looks nice - can you get crazy and make the clamps goldish?
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I can, but re-anodizing will took some tolerance of the part, and not good for the press fit, but ok for the plates.
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Hows the hex one looking for tkp? 
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There’s some tolerance difference in some hanger, unless your hanger flat to flat is at 19.1mm it’ll fit, but if its 19mm it’ll loose. I’ve test them. You need to check your dimension.
I made about 20 sets of those clamps now. And they worked for most people on TKP.
For my hangers they were too loose, I had to buy new hangers and after about 150 miles of harsh riding they did come a little loose
So it really does depend on the hanger. I would not suggest a press fit for tkp, just make a clamp that fits in your circular section of the motor plate
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I agree, eventho it loose, i can fix that easily with put some rubber heatshrink on it. Thanks for the insight 
