Nah that’s to test if you have high impeedance
no regrets
yes I laugh at my own jokes they’re funny
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not coffee spitting gif…
but beer came out my nose-holes…
EDIT:
Thank GAWD my charge-port was fused!
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Lol. I’m zonked, no time for peepee shenanigans. You’re gonna have to hold the fort on this one k00kdawg.
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How do you know if you’ve blown a fuse and need to change it? Im guessing the board wouldn’t accept charge when plugged in?
never buy
- 1 fuse
- four tires
- one woman
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atta boy… buying one fuse is just plain foolish…
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I can only ship one at a time, more won’t fit in the packaging.
If you order too many, then just get them from Mouser. But at $0.65 each plus $12.00 shipping, it doesn’t make sense to buy one. That’s where I can help you.
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Yes, $2 shipped to USA only with no tracking number.
If it doesn’t show up in 3 weeks I will refund you.
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For those in EU, look here
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Why would it matter if a fuse is 60 volts vs 12 volts. Other then the amp rating being adjusted with the thickness of the metal that blows?
It can arc over a blown fuse if the voltage rating is too low. But those are extreme edge-cases and in general it’s not really a terrible thing to exceed the voltage rating of a fuse. As long as you’re not exceeding it by orders of magnitude or anything.
It’s better to use a 12V automotive fuse on a 50V charge port — than to not use a fuse at all.
The fuses above are 58V rated fuses though, to be clear
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What you mean is even though the fuse blows at the current rating it’s supposed to blow, it blows and still leave the Gap that’s jumpable.
Yeah Ive never seen 12 to 20 series packs arc,
I wonder how close as far as microns for that occur with DC under 100 volts
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Yes
I usually put it on negative but either one works
If you’re bypassing the BMS, here is a diagram
But it looks like you might not be running in a bypassed configuration. Not sure.