Any difference between those apart from size and form?
Both 10a
I realized that i shouldn’t use those glass tube fuses in the board itself, so I’m looking for a replacement.
Both cost 5€ for a pack of 10
I believe voltage didn’t matter?
2 Likes
Building a 51.1v lifepo4 14s battery. 51.1v chargers are hard to find, easier to find 54v output. wondering why people are afraid to get chargers rated at higher voltage when the bms is supposed to prevent overcharging? Is it simply that if the bms fails then the batteries will be overcharged and potentially ruined?
2 Likes
I use glass tube fuses on every charge port ive ever touched (6-7), not a single failure yet. If youre looking for fuses, i’d go blade but its not worth replacing glass tube styled fuses unless they pop.
1 Like
I thought that if the voltage rating wasn’t high enough, it could still arc across anyway in the case of the fuse popping, making it pointless. Though don’t quote me on that, I’m not sure if 12s is high enough to cause any arcing anyway
1 Like
Im ask no expert on this topic either, but I also remember someone on here saying you want to match the voltage rating of the fuse with the application a while back.
Yep
Though I think the main thing that matters is the current rating. I’m pretty sure the only difference between those two is shape, and either should be fine
1 Like
In vesc mobile. These Motor and Battery categories in motor cfg is in red. Is this default, or is the vesc trying to tell me i did something wrong. 
Yeah +1 on the voltage rating, especially if it’s an automotive fuse for 12V and you’re using it on like a 50V charger that’s in the territory where arcing starts being a problem
3 Likes
Definitely. The plan was to keep it the same ~ or a little above (fuse side 58v and battery 42 or 50.4) depending on the board. Fuse will not be below the battery voltage.
2 Likes
its normal, think of it as a title or subject of that sub section in that sub catagory
1 Like
Also if you’re not using a dude holder make desire they aren’t aluminum, I got some that were aluminum and couldn’t use them because I couldn’t solder to em
1 Like
The one i found is silver plated zinc alloy
1 Like
Another thing.
I have a daly bms. Not smart. No way to monitor anything going on with the battery?
Like, know when to stop charging etc. Read somewhere 100% isn’t good.
My bet would be to get a 50.4V charger for 12S Li-Ion packs, that would give you 3.6V per cell for a 14S LFP pack. LFP can be charged to 3.65 (and sometimes higher depending on the cell if I remember right) but there’s veeery little energy stored above ~3.3V per cell. 3.6 vs 3.65 IMO is actually a better choice regardless, and if I was building LFP it would probably be for long pack life and I’d just charge to whatever value near 3.4 was convenient
Not sure if you’re familiar with these discharge curves, but basically if there’s a steep downward slope (like between 3.3 and 3.65) it means there’s very little energy provided by dropping down. The long flat part shows that after ~3.3 you get a lot of energy from every bit of voltage drop.
1 Like
Thanks. I am now planning to get an led driver charger and set it to 51.1. And a 12s li ion charger like you suggest for on the go charging. Only concern with using 12s li ion as main charger is that it might not trigger my bms to turn on and balance cells because it wont get cells to 100% capacity
Oooh yeah I didn’t think of that, hopefully someone else can give more info on that part of BMS behaviour
1 Like
I was talking with dinnye in another thread and it sounds like the bms might kick in even before the 50v mark but if I regularly charge with a 51.1v charger my bms will keep the cells balanced
Got this charger from ali-express.
It says it is a lipo charger. Is it fine for liion or will it damage the cells over time?
its fine
2 Likes
For 99% of all intents and purposes, lipo = li-ion. Same chemistry, same volages, different packaging, different optimizaitons.
That charger will be just fine for li-ion.