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WTB: 5056 motors

Hi Guys,

Since I ran into this case: What’s wrong with this motor ?
I am looking for alternative 5065 motors. My current ones are maytech 5065 170kv sealed.
I can have either one like this or 2 different ones. Ordering from China these coronavirus days is problematic sadly :frowning: because most of the companies are locked up or working from home.

Thanks.

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If you don’t want to order from China, you can try your luck with APS motors. They have all kind of sizes and kV.

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why was I linked to this… it interrupted an especially pertinent train of thought that would have revolutionized the esk8 industry… now that moment is lost for the want of a 5065 motor…

…shame…

aren’t they iffy at best???

EDIT: now back to my 4th day of reading thru the 2000 posts of the GREAT battery group thread… I’m on page 23 if you care… BBS…

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I just saw someone that had two evolve motors for sale, can’t find the post right now

Look around in the for sale section

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Maybe it was sold already

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I would rather get some racestar 5065, but don’t know where you can get them outside of China.
With this said, I never had issues with my aps motors after battle hardening, besides changing a bearing from time to time, but that can happen with every motor.

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There are these, but they appear to also ship from China or at least somewhere far away from me

https://smile.amazon.com/Racerstar-BRH5065-Brushless-Without-Balancing/dp/B07CYLJZKN/ref=sr_1_1

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I think @Tamatoa -san should start a motor manufacturing factory on his mud-island and make quality electric motors on-demand on limited time and budget for all us esk8 bastards… his rewards shall not be necessarily monetarily but be enriched by Karma and many brown mud-island babys,

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My current ones are 170kv , would you say 200kv or even 270kv in that sense would make any significant difference ?

…no comment…

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What ESC and battery are you using?

In general, unless you know otherwise, you want to stay 170Kv to 200Kv

If your battery charger says 25.2V then maybe 270Kv is better

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Yes, Kv makes a huge difference. Try the calculator linked at the top

You give up torque for speed and give up speed for torque. Torque is what you feel as “power” or the “e” in “esk8”. Speed is top speed. Kv is part of that equation along with battery voltage and wheel size and gear ratio

Unless you know otherwise, target a loaded top speed of around 30 mph (48 km/h). Too high and it won’t be as powerful and your brakes will suck. Too low, and, well, it won’t go fast enough.

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He also takes payment in the form of coconuts.

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FSESC 6.6 dual mini.
10S3P Samsung 40T

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Go for 190Kv to 200Kv

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Racerstar motors have a different bolt pattern than the Maytech’s.
And what’s wrong with the motor you posted a pic of is the hall sensor board is glued in the wrong position.
That can be fixed.

Please elaborate. Also - If I’m using the motor in a sensorless mode, it’s not working good either, so even if the sensors are not installed correctly (which is strange coming out of factory that way …), why would they affect sensorless mode?

Didn’t know you were running sensorless.

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I tried everything. nothing works well with this motor.

If you had a Inductance meter you could measure the inductance on a b c. But the bell needs to be off.
This would tell you if one of the phases is Fubar.