The go foc dv6 might be a better option then or a xenith. Go foc dv6 doesn’t have a power switch integrated iirc.
Yeah you’re gonna need a loop key or antispark
Which is confusing because all their photos show an xt90s on the esc lol.
Yeah they use an xt90s on the esc for some reason, even though a normal xt60/xt90 would’ve done the trick.
When I get my dv6 on Monday I’m just gonna desolder the xt90s and put an xt90 or xt60
Just to claim it has antispark I suppose
I mean, it wouldn’t be wrong and it could be useful at times when I don’t feel like hooking up my antispark to test. Otherwise it’s a free xt90s
Hey so my Xenith is coming next week and it has a xt60 on it. I’m planning on running my build on 12s that can (realistically) deliver up to 100a. In that case, it makes no sense for me to keep the xt60 correct?
Xt60 is just fine. It has a continuous rating of 60A and a burst rating of 180A.
What @Venom121212 said. Never confuse continuous ratings with burst/instantaneous ratings.
60A continuous is a SHITLOAD of power on a 12S LEV. You can easily hit currents double of that for brief periods, but averaged over time it needs to be 60A or less for the XT60 connector. Which is exactly what happens once you start rolling fast, your power draw plummets, which averages down the peaks.
To stick to the £500 budget, use 10s and use LIpos. The flipsky ESCs are perfectly fine on 10s around 25a battery / 65a motor each. I used both the 4.12 and 4.20 for hundreds of miles. There is no need to go 12s.
I am also trying to decide what my gear ration should be. I will be running 97mm street wheels. dual 6355 motors. Do I go for: 15T to 36T. or. 15T to 40T?
Use the calculator linked in the top bar and target a loaded top speed of like 27mph (44km/h)
90% on thane, 75% on pneummies and 65% on 9" pneummies
To be clear, it comes with a regular XT90 installed (the right one) and an XT-90S is provided in the bag.
I “unboxed” it in my DV6 setup video, you can see all the accessories
ah even better, no desoldering required. I forgot which side had the resistor, so I assumed it was the ESC side.