hey now, China is awesome for base materials. if you wanna spend 10x the cost ordering from bezos be my guest.
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That’s kinda the whole selling point of it 
But I haven’t had cracking on it in the 2years it’s been installed. However I don’t ride in winter here, that’s just suicide
Never said I would. Amazon Canada sucks for alot of stuff when you compare prices vs USA
I’d say not to expect good from Ali and get surprised when it is
hence why Ali is great and definitely has it’s place as a source. not everyone gets subsidized shipping like USAmericans.
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What do you think about these:
I imagine they would fit quite neatly onto many enclosures. Or is that angled attachment point simply unnecassary?
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I would love that angled attachment for eboosted enclosures
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…I am getting my enclosure (for a LY evo) off him and I am planning on using these haha! =D
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Second Skin Butyl Sealant Tape – Butyl Rubber Sealant, Multi-Purpose Butyl Rope, and Putty Tape for Automotive (Car, RV, Marine) – 1/4” x 1/2" x 20’ – Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155KELRW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_9AB2CJD8MS1JR71FKK3V
Sorry it’s amazon, this what I been using tho
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That’s a fantastic question. I’ve used both.
Sugru isn’t even worth trying really. It’s pretty ass.
IMHO, for an extremely-narrow use-case sugru would be best, but that would be extremely narrow and not related to waterproofing. Like adding padding to a handlegrip on a remote. It would be more comfortable to hold than plastic, metal, or an epoxy-based composite.
I can’t really think of a single thing sugru could do best for waterproofing though. Plus, it has a short shelf life and it’s slightly expensive, so those work against it as well.
TL;DR: skip sugru
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I’ve done exactly this, it’s really nice.
as someone who’s also used both materials I can’t agree more. Sugru is only really good in places where there’s little to no movement, little to no abrasion and it’ll be relatively undisturbed. plus it tends to crack apart after a while so I wouldn’t use it on anything even remotely permanent.
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It’s my feeling that nothing like that is going to beat drilling/cutting/abrading a hole through the enclosure (wear PPE for breathing) and putting your connector of choice through the wall, and epoxying it there.
As far as cable glands and related items, they aren’t very water resistant. Maybe a light small-volume splash once. To really make cable glands work well you need to seal them with butyl tape and in that case you could simply ditch the cable gland and just use butyl tape.
If you’re getting them for looks and appearance reasons, then go for it, but I wouldn’t recommend cable glands for water resist purposes.
The good news is that on a fiberglass enclosure, epoxy adheres to cut edges fucking fantastically because it’s already an epoxy-based composite that will have tons of microscopic fibers sticking out of the cut edge.
On a metal enclosures it sticks great.
On an ABS enclosure you should lightly sand around the hole, use a flex epoxy like West System 650 (it’s not very flexible, but not rock hard like most) and don’t extend the epoxy bead more than about 4mm from the connector. Use a toothpick. You can also put some butyl tape on the inside on the ABS version just in case it flexes and pops the epoxy off. This is rare but possible.
For best results, mix epoxy for an amount of time until you think it’s mixed well enough, then mix it for that much longer after that. It will seem excessive and tedious, but it needs to be completely mixed to work the best. Scrape the sides of the container occasionally while mixing.
Brian, I almost dare not, but…
Can you say more about this?
Tell me where I’m wrong here. With an XT90/MR60/MT60 connector epoxied into the enclosure wall, you’ve got (let’s assume) a perfect seal against the connector. But none of the Amass connectors I’ve seen are IP rated against water ingress, or even marketed as. Depending on which gender connector you’re epoxying, you have small or (relatively) large holes in/around the pins.
Vs an IP65 rated cable gland like these: McMasterCarr Wet-Location Multi-Cord Grips, with a rubber o-ring and internal grommet, that are specifically designed for this scenario. No butyl tape required if you’re mounting on a good, flat surface.
If I was planning to ride in the wet and wanted full piece of mind (which I am), I’d go for a commercial, off-the-shelf solution that was tested and rated to an adequate IP level.
Tell me what I’m not considering?
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You’re not wrong. If you epoxy the male (with the pins, not the holes) Amass connectors through the enclosure, you simply use a toothpick put a tiny epoxy on that little hole.
For the male XT90 connectors, take a tiny, tiny piece of paper, drag it through epoxy, and stick it to the back of the connector between the solder posts. Cut off the dry part sticking out after it cures.
Voilà!
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Commerical solutions are going to have caveats such as this
and also require a certain number of conductors that are certain sizes, etc.
Epoxying the wire in is fast, easy, and not really any requirements or prerequisites to deal with. It will Just Work 
I don’t know man, I’ve tried both and I can’t recommend more strongly epoxy or butyl tape.
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Fair fair, so you can seal Amass connectors. Then you’ve got to do something to stop them from ever (potentially) vibrating loose, which is a disadvantage cable glands don’t have.
Use cable glands for a few years, ride in the rain occasionally, and then maybe you can come back and be better at articulating why the next person shouldn’t use them.
They’re just not as good.
Lol. I respect your experience and your advice Brian, but this
is a terrible message. If you can’t effectively articulate it yourself, “trust me noob” is not a welcoming, trust-inspiring, or even friendly reply.
I was presenting alternative options for discussion. I see you’re not interested in that discussion. Cool cool. My mistake.
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The main reason it works better is because epoxy is a liquid, and the liquid is endlessly adaptable to what you are working on, and to waterproof all the stuffs.
The cable glands ship as a solid, and thus all the pieces must fall into place perfectly, which rarely if ever happens in practice. Even tugging on the wire or bouncing around can cause opportunites for ingress.
Using a liquid solution seems to work a lot better than a solid solution.
Likewise, butyl tape is a very malleable solid… so it works well imho.
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Which becomes a solid? Therefore has just as much of a chance at failure as any solid that you planned for in the build
It conforms to the other solids before curing.