im not a fan of the swivel the banana connectors have
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The connector AND the solder joint were probably subpar. It’s not always one or the other. 
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what connector could i change it to?
Why change it? Just email lacroix and ask what the connector is
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This is a flipsky problem, not a banana plug problem. You can do a shitty soldering job with any connector. I would just resolder all the flipsky connectors to the existing plugs.
anything 2 pin that fits on the footprint as it’s most likely 5V or 12V.
Am I late to the party/is anybody aware of these?
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803525546462.html
I honestly don’t know if there’s any major use case for them in esk8 tbh… I’ve ridden in rain & thru puddles with an exposed & basically flapping in the wind xt60 charge port, along with external mr60’s that were not sealed/modified from stock in any way. No issues in years.
But, thought I’d throw them here just in case. Feel free to integrate into the main post & delete my comment, too lazy to do so myself. Also a few more interesting amass connectors I’ll post that I don’t think I’ve seen here yet.
3 Likes
Actually - here is everything I’ve recently come across that I think is quite cool/I haven’t seen yet here. Some close, but with minor differences…
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803507618368.html
XT60E-F flush mount
- these also come in black & with quality integrated rubber lid caps
- Also, nickel plated instead of gold plated options exist. Not sure if that’s relevant for anything we do. Example of model no. In pic below
XT60BE-F (Slightly redundant)
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803925204074.html
MR60PW-M
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256802152714181.html
AMASS ICM150S17S-F
XT30G-(M/F) - I find these, specifically the female version, to be very nice for stealth mounting as a charge/lights port in the wood of a thick deck. Cut off the L bracket, leaving just the rectangle & female bullet portion. Makes it very easy to carve a pocket into the wood, shove it in with a bit of putty, & have it come out super clean…
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256804686268339.html
XT30PW(2+2) - this guy is… interesting, but I can’t think of many practical uses other than lights/temp sensors. Will let the curious do the googling of it.
Similarly - this guy is something we can all make… but seems quite convenient & less tedious at this price. Presume it would be used for something like integrated lights & charging them all.
XT30 Power Distribution Board (XT30 Input, 8 x XT30 Outputs)
[XT30 Power Distribution Board (XT30 Input, 8 x XT30 Outputs) - goBILDA]
Locking xt30’s:
XT30ULW-F
&
XTL30ULB-M
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/2251832763264730.html
XT30(AW/UF) - locking & waterproof xt30’s
ICX301-M (An xt30 with one smaller signal pin in middle - cannot imagine too much of a use case… but it’s out there)
Xt30pw-m36 - right angle pcb mount xt30 - another probably not many use cases… but it’s around
XT60-L As in, locking xt60. I’d argue it’s useful to have around, strange side mounts can easily be snipped off.
Potential all in one phase/sensor connectors:
Amass ICM150S17PB ICM150S17S-F ICM150S17PW-M Connector (3+7)
& finally - some contenders for my holy grail of a beefier yet still compact sensor wire connector that isn’t a gigantic fuckoff gx-12/amphenol circular connector type… various modifications to improve these shouldn’t be too hard, use your imagination.
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/2255801107311988.html
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256801814974071.html
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803468525426.html
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803272015882.html
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803605162992.html
(Potential external sensor connector that is beefier enough than the stock tiny shit, locking, & compact enough to my liking)
Meant to be heat shrinked over once connected & a potentially, with a fine tip syringe, filled with liquid e-tape (or epoxy) just enough to close off the rectangular entrances of the crimps/pins, but not so much that it flows down into the connector & gunks everything up. Big bag of syringes & assorted luer lock needle tips on Amazon should last you your esk8 career.
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803262868818.html
I encourage anybody to correct this/better organize or integrate it into the thread & wiki, my haphazardly late night post just to get it all out there is not amazingly digestible. Feel free to delete my post/tag me to slowly delete it as anything useful gets integrated into the wiki/compilation.
I am forever on the search for a turnkey 6-8 pin sensor connector meant to free-float outside of an enclosure instead of panel mount (panel mounting is also great - & we mostly have that covered - I just really like plugs floating outside of integrated decks/enclosures in some circumstances) - the closest thing to perfection I think we’ve had is Haggyboard/Timo’s barrel style connectors, but the housing is still way longer than it needs to be. I also think he did those as a custom one-off run having industry connections, & he is now done with esk8 & likely to not communicate with us further. No hard feelings, but damn do I wish we knew the factory that had that mold. In the meantime, if I haven’t already mentioned in this writeup (am very sleepy) - I feel as if two mr30 connectors, epoxied with a bit of support framing or shoved into a compact TPU 3D print or something, is one of the better options to have a rugged external sensor connector. Can be conveniently glued on top of or even velcroed to the much larger mr60 connector used for your phase wires. Modularity is key for the most autistic of us esk8 builders.
That said though… in like, 4 years of esk8, I’ve never had a real issue with the ZH/PH & whatever else JST connectors that come stock on our motors, aside from an errant male pin falling out every now and then. Nothing that a small dab of superglue/epoxy doesn’t fix… I just really hate the idea of babying them & the tediousness of removing heatshrink/braid/whatever else protecting them when I need to swap a motor. If a motor can’t be fully removed from its mounts & electrical connections in your build within a single minute (okay, maybe excluding gear drives - let’s think belt setups) - yer doin it wrong.
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I have used som plastic screw together connectors from ali for sensors.
Epoxy through enclosure wall.
The screws can vibrate loose so they can possibly come loose and fall out but a touch of hot glue can hold ‘em shut.
NZ$ 5.10 10％ Off | 2pin/3pin 18AWG 4pin 20 AWG 5/6pin 22AWG 8pin Black Color Male and Female waterproof Connector For LED strip Applicable 0.75mm sq
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtny6me
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I find it amusing that this is often the goal, when if you do need to replace the motor, you have to go through the painstaking process of modifying the new motor’s connectors to suit the system you have implemented. It seems rather counter productive to me.
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you’re saying 4mm banana plugs and JST-PH2 is good enough?
When installed in a proficient manner, sure.
I believe one of my xt60 ended up showing signs of water getting it via some corrosion on the pin, but there was never any issue when it was in use. Just noticed the corrosion when taking it apart or fixing some other problem
I hate you because now I want to add an exterior lip on my connectors too and I was almost done with my enclosure 
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JST + Glue lined heat shrink is easy enough to install, water proof enough, and secure enough for me. Removal can be a little annoying but there is no modification of the motors necessary so I’ll take the minor annoyance.
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meaning if you ever need to access it, it means cutting the connector right out of the line.
Yeah, every new motor that comes into my possession gets snipped to 3” phase leads, terminated with an mr60. Conformal coated, wires individually covered in nylon braid & fed into grey connector cover.
Currently, until I figure out what connector I want to use, sensor leads stay stock, but doubled/tripled over themselves to preserve wire length but also make ~3”/4”, & kept tidy w/nylon braid or Tesa tape.
Since I use integrated decks (Haya/Rocket Core) I like my leads coming long from the esc to the motor, which stays static length. Always very quick to re-terminate esc leads length if needed…
Also, I like to think it’s more modular than you think - in a pinch, you can just plug lone 3.5mm bullets into an mt/mr60 both ways… if you’re one of those weirdos that re-terminate everything with 4mm bullets, which I’ve deemed completely unnecessary having personally witness some of the most ass-hauling amp pushing users of the form never having an issue arise from 3.5mm’s… that’s yo problem.
If I ever switch over to non integrated decks & have to start using bottom mounted enclosures, I will likely start making use of more convenient panel mounting methods. But still… aside from an ultimate weight saving shortboard, I might stick to snipping motor wires & using a daisy chain from motor connector to panel mount connector 
Introducing more points of failure in your wiring harness makes riding more fun, or something like that. & when none of them ever fail you can circlejerk about your soldering skills.
I’ve also witnessed way too much wasted time from users posting on this forum & irl, trying & struggling to tidy their wiring internally & externally purely because they don’t want to fuck with the stock wire length & re-terminate… I find that weirder than my obsession of stubby motor leads, which take… minutes, at most.
I think after going back & re-reading I kinda misinterpreted what you said - you’re definitely right, but when it comes to phase leads, connectors making use of 3.5mm bullets (mr60/mt60/etc) are plug & play w/individual bullets. So if you do have a panel mounted mr60, need to throw on a new motor last second, your stock motor leads will plug & play for more than long enough. Sensor wires are a different story, but anybody in DIY w/more than one board should have a stash of adapters because every stupid fuckin motor vendor wants to use a different typically anemic connector (looking at you jst-zh 1.5mm pitch or fuckever you’re called) for sensor wires.
This has been the same experience for me. The only issue is that I want to get things down to one singular plugging action per motor, & I think a JST epoxied on top of an MR60 is just a little too flimsy.
I’m also not amazingly comfortable with the wire gauge that comes stock w/the JST connectors… riding off-road in terrain with jagged rocks, weird multi-limbed tree stumps, & cactuses. I’ve yet to have an issue, & endless amounts of nylon braid or whatever can be applied, but I’d feel a bit safer going inside the motor & re-terminating w/20-22 awg silicone that leads to mr30 bullets. 2mm I think? First time a flimsy sensor wire assembly gets clean cut by an errant cactus would be a sad time.
I have you muted… but… what?
How much of that motor side sensor connector flash molding could be cut off? I just think they’re so damn long. A sensor connector being twice the length (all rigid parts at least) of your phase connectors just isn’t right. If 3/4” or so could be cut without compromising the connector… that’s a good option.
Fuck I need to stop reading esk8 forum late at night, nothing good functions in the English comprehension skills center of my brain when I do.
Heaps. Can cut right back but likely have to resolder all pins. I’m lazy (buy prewired ) and cbf so left as is
I use glue lined heatshrink all the time and I’ve never had to cut any connectors out. Just slit with a razor blade and it will come off fine.
I love to see what slick connectors people dabble with but there is nothing wrong with 4mm banana bullets and jst-ph 2.0.
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I can see the appeal of panel mounts, dust does get into my enclosure due to the grommet holes. But I’m not bothered enough.
1 Like