I wonder if securing the axle to the motor mount so they won’t rotate prevented them from being preloaded properly, hence suffering too much fatigue.
Other though is about the material, might be not to spec?
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I think they were made with Nickel-plated C45 steel.
Well there’s the problem then, probably half the strength of the boardnamics axles.
You could try and drill The axle and use an easy out, if it’s only c-45 it may not be too difficult, May need some heat to break down any locktite too
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Depending how much of the axle is sticking out of the hangar, you could probably dremel a slot for a flathead screwdriver providing you didnt put 638 loctite or anything on the threads.
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idk, im going by what was posted here.
Front Axle Design Specs:
- OAL: 128mm
- 15mm of M8x1.25 to thread into the SR helicoil
- 44mm of shaft length inside the hanger
- 41mm spacer with integrated 12.6mm nut (1/2" or 13mm wrench)
- 32mm of axle for wheel
- 11mm of M10x1.0 for very fine thread locknut
Manufacturing Info:
- Full CNC
- Nickel-plated C45 steel
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Tbh, I’m just gonna switch to Kev’s 270’s. The 176’s can’t be used as I need these axles to make the 6380’s fit. I might find a use for them sooner or later.
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fair I didnt see these updates
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I don’t. I’ll see if I can get ahold of Matt and ask.
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This definitely wasn’t good. Agreed.
Actually given that the axle is attached to the motor mount, they could be adding to this failure a lot.
The axle already is essentially being levered at the end of the hanger by the wheel and weight of the rider. Add all the impacts of riding. Then add rotational stresses every time you accelerate or brake. All of those forces are also being applied there.
Theoretically, the clamp on the hanger that bolts to the plate on the axle should eliminate this, but with most people adding nickel strips as shims (we did that too), there is definitely some cycling there. Add the motor mounts knocking back and forth a bit when loose.
Material of choice: maybe
Motor mounts on the axle and perhaps mediocre ability to lock them to the hanger: likely.
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I have a feeling I know who’s place he’s coming to to try and retrieve it. Looks to be snapped flush or just recessed from flush.
I have some cobalt bits at home and extractors I’m gonna try. Could see if a friend could get In there with a tig and put a small hardened steel nut on it and we should be able to back it out
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If your axles were bent, the cone would be the other way around.
Cone? I’m dum, are you speaking of the angle of the wheels? If the axles bend, I’d expect it to be angled like it is here. You might be pointing out the wheels themselves could be coned, which would also be the case.
It’s sitting on the table wheels down charging. The back right is for sure only touching on the inside edge.
I’ll keep an eye on them, was gonna ride it hard today but outside is bad for my health. Doesn’t really have a lot of miles on it yet.
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Brain fart. Disregard my comment.
I was looking at the wheel and thought it was wear.
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Could one of the problems be that the momentum of the motor directly causes torsion on the wheel axle instead of the hanger? This seems also be the case with direct drives and when hence them running 12-14mm. The motor is basically on a lever like that and these forces can become quite big. Basically moment=force * levering distance.
Plus on one side the mount is actually putting force on the thread the wrong way
Edit: i think @bwahl602 was ahead of me 
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I think the index rings were supposed to help eliminate this force. However, with the experience most have had with needing to shim the index rings, I’m wondering how effective they really are at doing that.
This is part of the reason I used dual crossbars on my motor mounts.
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Ok update time. I took the other axle out. This one was cracking too. If you own a set you should check.
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