That’s probably what I saw will search for them thanks
I think TPU is too soft. Is should work well with PETG, pla+ and of course Nylon (no need for alloy 910, just regular cheaper ones will do)
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I’ll try to remix the design into a DD wheelguard soon and I’ll use a 58D TPU for it since it can be used for higher temperature applications 
50% infill is a bad idea for final parts . It is meant to be printed solid. The only time I print with low percentage infill is if I am testing out fitment or looks.
If that’s your test part to test fitment then going even lower infill % might be better.
I know you have nylon experience, so I’ll assume you are speaking from an assumption and have not performed printing this piece in TPU to justify your comment.
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To be fair, I printed the broken splash guard in 100% infill pla and this enclosure at only 5% infill tpu over a year ago and it’s still holding strong after a couple crashes, plenty of curb grinds and battle tested with my 11 y.o. son testing its integrety…
Ohh you are printing in TPU. I missed that. Then it’s fine. TPU is really tough. I thought you were printing in PLA.
But with TPU cantilever parts may flop around too much. But if it turns out that it is a great choice, I definitely will try a set.
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Can we talk about that hamster though
I… Love it
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Well, how does everyone else cut down on power costs? I think I save 5 cents per print putting that little guy to work.
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3x 150w solar panels in series, 100a 12v mppt charge controller, 3x 12v 200ah deep cycles, 12v 3000w inverter. Only thing that doesn’t run off of that is my water heater.
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Printing at 50% infill with TPU feels rigid enough, but I’ll see how it stiffness holds with vibrations. I also reprinted the mounts in PETG as the first prints in pla already cracked.
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No way PLA+ is strong enough? I mean I’m still new in the 3D printing world, but PLA+ is just improved PLA but not necessarily to the level of ABS or PETG?
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In my experience, of testing so many different styles of wheel guards and printing in different materials, I have found that pla+ works great as wheel guards. Also your printing style matters. Putting the part cooling fan on full blast greatly weakens the layer adhesion.
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I suppose if you don’t max out the fans, you limit some of the things you can have in your print such as bridges and gaps? I understand ABS and PETG need to be hot and stay hot, so that makes sense. In my very short time of printing, I never printed any type of PLA with low usage of fans. I need to look into that.
Yes and sharp corners lifts up.
PLA is brittle so PLA+ fixes this problem by making it a bit more flexible and hence tougher. So bends and vibrations don’t break it as easily. Also prints at 20 degrees c higher making it a bit more temp resistant.
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Here’s my take on the rear guards.
My rear truck is a bit busy and I couldn’t really think of a good way to get the guard attached there.
So I decided I would attach it to the deck using a DAVEGA baseplate. This is the quick and dirty first version.
There were several problems with it though. First, it’s a bit narrow since I printed it as a single piece and hit the limit of my Prusa mk3s workspace size. So while it does reduce splashing, I was still getting some.
Second, there’s not enough clearance between the guard and the wheel and I was getting some wheel bite when going over corners. Since the guard is flexible it wouldn’t be the kind of wheel bite that would throw you off the board. It would merely slow the wheel a bit and cause some noise. It was still annoying.
Last, it’s too thin and brittle. You can notice that a piece is already missing on the right hand side.
So here’s my version two:
The idea is to print as three pieces that go together like this:
All gets bolted down to a DAVEGA baseplate which comes here:
I printed the first part today with some supports near the bottom to prevent it from flipping over. It came out pretty well.
It didn’t quite fit. I should make a full model of my board at some point to make creating parts for it easier. Anyway, a bit of cutting and filing fixed it.
Prepared for getting mounted:
Aaaand… it fits!
No wheel bite. 
I should cut a little bit off the rear part. The overhang there is way more than necessary. I of course didn’t account for 15 degree angle of the tail on my EVO. 
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I had this same thought, so like that you went this direction to see how it works out. I was afraid that avoiding wheel bite, due to being mounted to the board, would result in too much gap for my taste between the wheel and the splash guard.
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I have 220mm diameter at the edge, opening up to 240mm. This is for 165mm tires. There’s plenty of clearance. I could have probably gotten away with reducing the diameters by ~20mm. I may still do it since I’ll be reprinting it anyway. I want to take a little off the rear part and model the cutout that I had to do manually so that the left and right part are nice and symmetric.
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