This is about how I ride, minus the grass bc I just ride my 110 urethane. I wouldn’t call myself an inexperienced builder at this point, the reason I keep picking lipos is only based on cost. It still just hasn’t made sense to hit the entry cost for a $120 spot welder and $300 of cells to get the same amp draw capabilities that I can get out of $120 of lipos.
If I had the funds, for sure I would just go with a round cell pack, but here we are. Next pack I will probably do liion because I will be working and have enough to hit the entry cost.
Thanks.
That is what the gear drive came with.
Not sure why @IDEA chose that but I like it.
I really feel the torque kick in later and it’s so manageable at lower speeds where I don’t get bucked off if I hit the throttle to hard. And I like that I can cruise at 25 knowing I can go a lot faster.
I get 62 miles on hammering my board like crazy, 80 by going easy, 95+ by not going over 50km/h, and playing a lot on the free roll of the DD.
12s8p of 50e, on TB DD with 110s 74A
i’m lucky, i only weigh 124 pounds, 56kg.
My next pack is gonna be a 36V 12Ah pack. I hope to get some good range out of that to go to school and back in 1 charge.
Holy crap lol I think range anxiety would be non-existent with that. That thing must weigh a ton though. Do you ever get voltage sag with the 50E’s or is the 8p enough to compensate for that? 96 cells is literally insane
I do not actually, even after 80Km, I could hammer it down, no issue whatsoever. Haven’t had the time to push through till end of battery.
12s8p is enough to compensate the sag
Yeah, that shit is heavy as f, with the direct drive
Wasnt there someone who made an Excel sheet in which you needed to fill in your specs and wh/km? Maybe merging these 2 topics together would be nice. But I can’t seem to find the other topic. Maybe someone can help me out?
I get around 22wh/km. When I first got into esk8 people said 10wh/km was normal. Thus I built a battery way to small. You would have too be a child midget going slow to get that.