whats the best strongest cheapest m mounts?

[jonisingt35r]

they look good

[kalebludlow]

@jonisingt35r

dont want to put the vendor down,

We can’t help you if you don’t tell us what mount you use. No need to say anything about the vendor, just state the mount

[jonisingt35r]

you don’t need to know, like i said not putting the vendor down, just looking for the best m mounts
by the looks of it found them thanks

[kalebludlow]

Oh sorry I misunderstood. For cheap mounts you wanna go with either Dickyho or Boardnamics, just depends on what you’re willing to spend. Also keep in kind that the TB218 mounts are plenty strong, people have ridden thousands of kms on them, I wouldn’t worry unless you weight 120kg+

[Sn4Pz]

Pretty sure hes got tb218 trucks, but the mounts are the issue.

If I had to guess, since it’s a vendor here (which eliminates those turd-tier hobbywing mounts), that it’s dickyho mounts.

Dicky has come out with thicker mounts to prevent bending and fatigue, but I can’t confirm or deny if it actually benefitted the product. (Maybe check before continuing, you say that they look fine for now… So there’s no need to upgrade before you can build your budget up)

@jonisingt35r I think boardnamics are good if you’re on a budget, but the torqueboards mounts ( only after being welded, JBwelded, or other solution) are a good contender.

Do you want to buy mounts a third time if the next set you buy takes a dive?

[kalebludlow]

@Sn4Pz

Dicky has come out with thicker mounts to prevent bending and fatigue

I received one of the first units of the stronger mount in the longer size. Had previous version mounts too, and it is noticeably stronger. The OG mounts used to be easily scratched up and could be warped by hand. This is no longer the case

[Sn4Pz]

@kalebludlow

could be warped by hand.

Wtf

Glad he corrected that… Maybe it was a bad batch of alu

[kalebludlow]

Nah was just not high grade product. Aluminum is inherently soft as a material, so choosing lower strength materials is not ideal. When I say warp by hand, I was bending with all my strength while they were mounted to the truck. I wouldn’t worry during most normal use cases

[CiscoV]

@jonisingt35r

you don’t need to know, like i said not putting the vendor down

[natebolo]

We don’t need to know

[b264]

@Movation

Caliber II Motor Mount with Idler Tensioner

The motor mount is an essential piece to your DIY electric skateboard build. This is the foundation of the entire drive train, responsible for mounting your brushless motor and aligning your belt s…

These, but I recommend the non-idler version

Caliber II 63mm Motor Mount

[XTLA]

Try whooshboard mount for caliber

[Movation]

I agree about Dickyho mounts the flex made the belt skip on my AT board the fix was 3 threaded rod as cross bracing. I imagine over time they might snap/bend.

[jonisingt35r]

thanks dickios look good, and so do caliber 11

[kalebludlow]

He does sell adjustable crossbars now

[MauveMaverick]

@jonisingt35r

have tb 218mm 63 motors reverse mount

I take it as you already have tb218’s you are no longer interested in mine?

[Movation]

I make my own from M4 treaded rod a few nylon loc nuts and a blue anodised stainless drinking straw.

[mtsmithies]

Is there some problem with using the idler? Curious why you recommend going without it.

[b264]

Adds more things that can fail, wears out belt from both sides instead of just one side, isn’t really needed if you set up and align the belt correctly.

@b264

Alignment – the best way I’ve found to perfectly align belts is

• get motor mount (without motor) snug on hanger, then loosen a tiny bit so it moves
• install wheel and pulley with no speedring (washer) between the hanger and inner bearing.
• push motor mount flush up against wheel pulley so they are touching each other
• keep those held tightly together while you tighten motor mount clamps
• make sure mount is flush against, and touching, the wheel pulley, and there is no gap or misalignment
• finish tightening mount clamp all the way
• make sure again that mount is flush against, and touching, the wheel pulley, and there is no gap or misalignment
• when you’re all done, take the wheel and pulley back off, add a single 1mm speedring (washer) and just like that, the pulley will be perfectly aligned and 1mm away from the motor mount plate
• if you need it further away when you are doing tensioning, then add more washers

And also make sure your pulleys are concentric and don’t wobble at all as @taz mentioned. That’s super important.

[Movation]

I use to think like that but then I tried them. Loose belts that don’t slip is like magic. They are not for everyone it is another part that needs servicing even if you don’t use the idlers, the idler mounts are longer does makes reversing them simpler.